10 Questions for Nuage

Nuage is a Philbrooks Fast Passage 39 cutter rigged hailing from Vancouver, Canada. Nuage left Vancouver in 2005 sailing offshore Vancouver to San Francisco and then coastal cruising to San Diego, through Mexico, the Sea of Cortez, Central America and Panama, to Ecuador in South America.

Her owners say: We are a retired couple who began sailing in 1990. We joined the Bluewater Cruising Association in Vancouver to meet other wannabe offshore sailors and educate ourselves about the lifestyle and skills needed.  We started our trip in 2005 and have returned to Vancouver each year for the summer.

What is the next piece of gear you would add to your boat if it were free and why? We are equipped to suit our needs so it would have to be something frivolous like a generator to satisy the Captain's ongoing quest for power, but space is the issue here rather than cost.  Or perhaps a satellite phone but we don't know who we'd call (!).

What is something you think potential cruisers are afraid about that they shouldn't fear? And what is something potential cruisers don't worry about that perhaps they should? Cruisers, both dreamers and doers, worry about weather and breakdowns.  Preparation is more useful than fear.  We try to evaluate weather information available onshore before making a passage, and at sea we monitor daily weather updates via GRIB files downloaded through SSB.  We carry a plethora of spare parts and David is capable of fixing almost anything on the boat.  Not all offshore cruisers have learned to maintain their boats and this should be a BIG worry.  Even if you have access to and can afford qualified tradesmen in port, you still have to be self reliant at sea.

Where was your favorite place to visit and why? Our finest cruising grounds between Vancouver and South America were the Sea of Cortez in Mexico.  White sand beaches, beautiful blue, warm water, snorkelling, spear fishing, day sailing and good weather forecasts.  For onshore exploration, backpacking in South America is fascinating with each country different from the next, and very cheap living and travel.  We camped in Tierra del Fuego, on the Beagle Channel at the tip of South America and luckily found a last minute cheap(er) exploration cruise from there to Antarctica.  We like taking our time and exploring the countries we visit.

What is a tip or a trick you have picked up along the way? We learned Spanish.  It's a work in progress but, apart from being an interest and a lot of fun, it allows us to travel with confidence and enjoy the local people so much more.  It's good for bargaining too!

Are you attracted more to sailing itself or cruising-as-travel and has that changed over time? We didn't have an opinion before we left but we are definitely cruiser/travellers and, although passages can be a zen experience, we are always pleased to be at anchor in a new destination with exploration ahead of us.

What is something about the cruising culture you like and what is something you dislike? We like being part of a community and having an entree to meeting new people with the minimum of formality.  The sociability of cruisers in Mexico is outstanding;  however, as you venture out into more challenging sailing areas among a diversity of nationalities, there is not as much boater interaction.  Panama City is an example, being the crossroads of the world where boats are in preparation mode for either a transit or a crossing.  Dislike - cruising is a lot of physical work - more than is generally realized and in hot countries this can be wearing.

What is the most important attribute for successful cruising? Attitude - stay calm, be outgoing, respect and appreciate your crew, be open minded, be generous, have fun.

In your own experience and your experience meeting other cruisers, what are the common reasons people stop cruising?
At some point cruisers can get tired of the level of work involved with sailing a boat offshore and want to move on with land-based interests.  Or people can be attracted to the travel but not enjoy the passages.  Many young people can't afford more than a targeted one or two year cruise.  We know of only one boat which returned home after one year due to the crew's nervousness on the water.  You have to remember, it's OK to give it up - at least you tried.

In your first year of cruising, what transitions did you find the most difficult? For my husband it was being away from family.  For me it was ensuring that business back home was being taken care of.  Neither are boat related - the first year was not a challenge to our enthusiasm for cruising.

What question do you wish I would have asked you besides the ones I've asked you and how would you answer it?

What skills are necessary prior to casting off?

We crewed offshore prior to our trip and we preceded this with many years of coastal sailing and navigation in British Columbia in a variety of conditions and locations.  My husband installed most of the equipment on the boat, becoming completely familiar with her in the process.  What he didn't know, he learned, which has proved invaluable to us offshore.  We also rely heavily on HAM/SSB radio and contact with other operators while on passages so getting the HAM licence is wise.

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10 Questions for Irie

Mark Kilty and Liesbet Collaert have been cruising since 2007 aboard Irie, a Fountaine Pajot Tobago 35', hailing from Newcastle, Delaware, USA - they've never been there. They went down the ICW to Florida and then have spent their time in the Bahamas,Turks and Caicos, Dominican Republic, Puerto Rico, USVI, BVI,  St. Maarten/St. Martin and the Eastern Caribbean island chain down to Grenada. You can read more about their travels on their website and their blog or reach them by email (crew@itsirie.com).

Liesbet says: I am a former teacher, freelance writer and avid traveler from Belgium and my husband Mark is an ex-software engineer from the United States. We left the US with our two wonderful dogs (Australian Shepherd mixes) Kali and Darwin. We lost Kali in Puerto Rico at the age of 10.5 and recently lost Darwin during a visit to the US at the age of 9.5, both to cancer. It changed our lives and our family. Mark and I belong to the younger side of the cruising community and new family members are considered.

Why did you decide to cruise?
I love to travel, explore and expand my horizons any interesting way; Mark likes to sail. He was sick of the "American Dream", after 10 years of hard work and I'm just open to anything new. He planned on going cruising at some point in the future and meeting me made it (kind of) happen a bit quicker. I'm the traveler (I do like to sail as well), Mark's the sailor and together we are cruisers! We love being mobile with our own house. This interview covers our second attempt (the first one failed after two days) to be cruisers, even though back then I didn't even know what "cruising" meant!

What did you do to make your dream a reality?
Nothing special really. We just followed "the steps" to make it happen, just like any other time I had an adventure in mind. But the story goes like this: When I met Mark in California while camping around the US in 2004, he had a long-term plan of going cruising. Since I decided to give up my travel plans to be with him, I encouraged him to do it sooner, so we could go travel by sailboat, something entirely new to me. Mark bought a 25 year old monohull, quit his job, sold all his belongings and all four of us moved into F/Our Choice/s for 5 months, working on her hard every day and getting her ready to go cruising. Two days out of San Francisco Bay, the dogs hated the heeling of the boat and were uncomfortable. Within 5 weeks, we sold the monohull, bought a camper and traveled overland to Panama and back for 1 year. Then, the sailing bug bit Mark again. We sold our set-up, bought a small pick-up truck (initial plan was to move to Belize, but that was right before the sailing bug bit) and camped in a tent with our dogs for two months in search of a decent and affordable catamaran. We found her in the Annapolis area, right before our self-appointed two-month deadline was up. Take two started after four months of preparation, in October 2007. The dogs loved it!

What do you think is a common cruising myth?
That life on a sailboat is (always) romantic, easy, wonderful, exotic and something to be envious of. That sailing equals freedom. That we cruise, because we are fortunate and/or rich! The reality boils down to one word: choices.

Describe a perfect cruising moment that will make cruisers-to-be drool with anticipation.
The wind is blowing a perfect 15 knots out of a favorable direction (off the beam), the sails are full and we are moving through the water smoothly. The sun beams in a blue sky and the breeze keeps us cool. The autopilot does the work, the crew is smiling, and the pup is relaxed in the cockpit. We approach the coastline of St. Lucia, where the giant Pitons loom picturesque on the horizon. All of a sudden a pod of dolphins greets our sailboat with playful jumps and speedy group movements through the clear water off our bow. Wow! (Oh, and then we catch a giant tuna and have sushi for dinner)

What is a tip or a trick you have picked up along the way?
Keep an eye on the weather and use a "weather window" to get to your destination, instead of a deadline (like meeting friends or family at a certain day). This is common sense more than a tip, but it is so true. Nothing is more annoying than having to bash into heavy wind and seas to HAVE to get somewhere.
Talk to other cruisers to find out about the lay of the land (custom and immigration rules, points of interest, good harbors .)

ALWAYS make sure your anchor is set, no matter how light the wind is.
Do as much as you can yourself; it saves money, frustration and time, you know it's done right (albeit after a few tries sometimes) and who to blame and you learn more about your boat.

In your first year of cruising, what transitions did you find the most difficult?
Our first year of cruising was actually the best one. We discovered new places, enjoyed being with our dogs on all the beaches, didn't stress about finding and having jobs, had a sailboat in good working order and I was living in my biggest "house" ever! What I remember as finding "difficult" was the fact that there are barely any other young cruisers out there and that we were soooo dependent on the weather (and had to find safe havens each time a cold front made it down), something -in my opinion- that takes away from your sense of freedom. Being so reliant on the weather (which means skipping new places, islands and countries) still bugs (and restricts) me.

What is something that you read or heard about cruising, that you found particularly accurate?
I didn't really hear or read about cruising before we started doing it ourselves. But, what I would like to add as a benefit to cruising (which I might as well have read, or written about myself) is that it is very easy to meet other cruisers and be part of the cruising community, that it can be done cheaply, that you become accustomed to "social drinking", that there is a lot to do (1, 2) and that sailing in perfect conditions is awesome.

What I heard from other cruisers before we left the US is that The Bahamas are one of the best and most pretty cruising grounds. Back then I found that hard to believe (they are relatively close, the closest, to the US), but now, after three seasons in the Eastern Caribbean, I have to admit that I do agree (so far)!

Are you attracted more to sailing itself or cruising-as-travel and has that changed over time?
I am a traveler by heart, not a sailor. I just love exploring new territory and experiencing new cultures, languages, sights. However, when the conditions are "right", I do love the sailing as well. Just feeling the boat, the wind, the elements, and staring at the horizon. Very peaceful. I have learned to really enjoy it, especially during daytrips while and after months of sitting in the same place, working.

Of the changes, choices and compromises you had to make along the way, which were you happiest and most satisfied about, which do you wish you had chosen otherwise and why?
During this second sailing attempt, we decided to get the boat ready enough to live and sail comfortably, without more gadgets than needed. We made that "mistake" the first time around, and worked on that boat for eight months in total to turn it into the "perfect" cruising boat. This time, we got her going after a few months (note: Irie was a newer boat than our previous one as well) and learned through experience what was needed.
Since we've left, we bought and installed solar panels and a wind generator, very good decisions. We also collect water in an efficient way now. Living off and with Mother Nature is very satisfying! Sitting in Luperon, the Dominican Republic, during a whole hurricane season was easy and safe, but not good for the boat and a bit boring (that was before we had jobs as well). We vowed not to do it again and rather pick a hurricane destination where some exploration and sailing can be had (like Grenada).

We started our own business from our small sailboat in the Caribbean and are still not sure whether that was a wise and good decision.

What question do you wish I would have asked you besides the ones I've asked you and how would you answer it?

How can you afford to cruise? 

Since Mark and I are relatively young, we get that question asked a lot, especially by non-cruisers. Obviously we are not retired and by choice we want to live this lifestyle longer than a one or two year sabbatical. We can only function and be happy onshore for a couple of years at the time, so a floating house is a good compromise of having our own place and being able to travel.

How we afford it is by working along the way, what in turn takes away from the cruising experience. Most of the time, we are stuck in one place trying to make money and the enjoyment of cruising, sailing and traveling has dwindled down to only a few weeks out of the year.

We pick our anchorages based on WiFi (wireless internet) availability (and dog friendliness in the past). I write, translate, find miscellaneous jobs, and help out with our business, Mark runs the business, customer service, website, part of the sales, and so on. Not always easy from a simple boat in a simple location. Together we run the daily boat errands and fix all the boat issues. It's a busy life to be cruisin'!

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10 Questions for Scream

Darusha Wehm and Steven Ensslen began cruising in 2008 aboard Scream, a Huntingford custom 45' hailing from Victoria, BC, Canada. They left British Columbia heading down the Pacific coast of the Americas to Ecuador, over to the Galápagos, then across the Pacific to the Marquesas.  From there, they sailed to New Zealand via French Polynesia, the Cook Islands, Samoa and Tonga. You can read more about their voyage on their website.

In your first year of cruising, what transitions did you find the most difficult?
It was tough leaving people and places so quickly.  At the time it seemed like we'd never see folks we'd really gotten to like again.  It also took us a long time to settle into a watch schedule that worked for us.  We kept following the advice of other cruisers and trying to do what worked for them, even though we thought there was a better way for us, but no one was doing it.  Eventually, we just tried it anyway, and it turned out to be the most successful.

Steven found leaving his job difficult.  Our society expects everyone to be busy making money, and looks down on those who aren't.

What piece(s) of gear would you leave on the dock next time? Why?
Scream is a generously sized boat.  We have lots of stuff on board that we rarely use, like our folding bicycles and inflatable kayaks. So while there are things that we have never used, I'm not sure that I'd leave anything behind.  That having been said, there are cruisers trying to sell storm anchors and drogues everywhere and I don't know of any experienced cruiser who doesn’t sail high latitudes who thinks that they are worth the space they take up.

Tell me your favorite thing about your boat.
Darusha — Scream is a heavy double ender, very stable in a sea.  We've never been pooped and with our enclosed cockpit we almost always stay dry.  I love that we have a cockpit that is comfortable enough to live in at sea (and anchor) and that the boat feels secure.

Steven — The enclosed cockpit.  When you're taking waves and spray all the way to the stern while you're trying to talk to the coasties on the VHF, it really helps not to be covered in salt water.  More typically, it is nice to be out of the rain.

What is something that you read or heard about cruising, that you didn't find to be true?
We heard a lot of warnings about theft, especially in Costa Rica.  I think we might have had a better experience If we'd been less wary and actually been robbed.  As it was we were overly careful with the boat and suspicious of the locals and never experienced any theft issues.

We also prepared a lot for heavy weather and have thankfully seen no more than 35 knots at sea since passing Cape Mendocino.

What is something about the cruising culture you like and what is something you dislike?
Darusha — I love that we are a floating small town that dissipates and reforms constantly. You keep meeting up with your neighbours all over the world, and there's nothing like the feeling of seeing good friends pull into an anchorage unexpectedly.  However, all small communities have problems with gossip and we all can get too much in each others pockets.

Also, there's a fine line between the wealth of information and help you can get from other cruisers and nosy neighbours trying to tell you what to do.

Steven — We enjoy the camaraderie and community spirit.  I'm not sure I dislike anything.

What (if anything) do you wish someone had told you before you started cruising?
Darusha — It’s not that hard. Just go.

Steven — Go as soon as you can.  Don't wait for everything to be perfect.  Incidentally, many people gave us this message.

Of the changes, choices and compromises you had to make along the way, which were you happiest and most satisfied about, which do you wish you had chosen otherwise and why?
We spent two months in an anchorage we’d planned to spend a couple of weeks in, and we often talk of going back.  Being free to change your plan when you find a place you love is one of the highlights of cruising.
I wish that we had visited Panama, rather than mainland Ecuador.  The Ecuadorian government makes cruising almost impossible and Panama has better anchorages as well.

What is your biggest lesson learned?
Cruising is hard work.  Boats need a lot of maintenance.  Cleaning and cooking and provisioning are more difficult than they are on land.  Watches need to be kept on passage.  Living on land is easier, and for many people more relaxing.  It’s not all mai-tais in the hammock.

What did you do to make your dream a reality?
We arranged our entire lives to make this happen.  We have no children, no pets, no cars, and went years between minimal vacations.  We skimped and saved, and sailed as much as we could.  I can't exaggerate how much we did for this as we did everything we could.

What question do you wish I would have asked you besides the ones I've asked you and how would you answer it?
One thing that I have noticed is that many people outfit boats for long ocean passages when their interest is to cruise in a specific foreign territory.  I recommend that people who want to sail in a specific place to buy a coastal cruising boat in that location rather than outfitting a boat for offshore passages.  Boats are cheaper in Mexico or Tahiti or New Zealand than they are in California.  And you need less of a boat with less gear aboard than you would for ocean crossings or sailing in higher latitudes.

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10 Questions for Barbara Marrett

Barbara Marrett cruised from 1986 to 1990 and has conducted sail training since 1994. Based in Friday Harbor, WA, USA, her vessels have included a 31’ Hallberg Rassy Monson Sloop, 42’ Hallberg-Rassy Ketch, 65’ Sparkman Stephens Sloop,  and a 45’ Cavalier Sloop. Her cruising days were in the South Pacific but she is now skippering vacation and learn trips in the San Juan Islands. She can be reached by email (bmarrett@rockisland.com) and says: I teach Vacation and Learn cruises in the San Juan Islands of Washington State, aboard a comfortable 45’ Cavalier sloop through Orange Coast College (949-645-9412). I am a contributing editor for Cruising World Magazine and Port Commissioner.

What (if anything) do you wish someone had told you before you started cruising?
That it would be difficult to re-enter the materialistic and fast paced American culture after cruising to the exotic islands and remote villages of the North and South Pacific. I found it refreshing to be among cruisers from other countries who had an adventurous spirit one doesn’t find among most folks ashore. Remote cultures that are welcoming and family-oriented, were a joy to get to know.
I wish I’d been told it would be difficult to find work outside the sailing world for someone who had gotten used to living in a world without walls.

Do you have any specific advice for couples cruising?
Have an area of the boat that is yours, keep what you want there and don’t let your spouse mess with it. Bring a few items that have emotional significance for you.

Connecting with other women was something I took for granted on land. Cruising, I had to make a point to share time with women. When I did, I realized the validation and depth of sharing I was missing.
Take mini vacations from each other. I flew home alone for a family reunion – an extravagance. To be among family without spouse pressure and to take a break from the boat was truly a vacation. Don’t lose track of who you are. Tell yourself, “I am the master of my ship, the captain of my destiny.”

Are you attracted more to sailing itself or cruising-as-travel and has that changed over time?
A boat is like a magic carpet to exotic places. I love to travel and appreciate the simplicity of living aboard (an uncomplicated easy to maintain boat). Being able to bring your home with you as you travel and share it with others can’t be beat. Having said that, I definitely am more into the cruising lifestyle than sailing for sailing sake.

What is something that you read or heard about cruising, that you didn't find to be true?
I didn’t want to jump ship after my first passage. I was like a bird let out of a cage…wanting to fly further and freer.

In your first year of cruising, what transitions did you find the most difficult?
I am someone who gains satisfaction from accomplishment. I found it hard to not feel guilty about just being instead of doing. I got over this by writing articles for sailing magazines…which eventually became a cruising book: Mahina Tiare Pacific Passages. Using my graphics background, I self published the book and sold 8,000 copies. This was tremendously satisfying.

What did you find most exciting about your cruising life?
Feeling really alive and aware of my surroundings, all my senses were engaged in managing the boat, in meeting new people, trying new foods, seeing everything from the giant statues of Easter Island to the volcanoes of Vanuatu.

With the benefit of hindsight, what are the boat selection criteria you would use to purchase a boat for long term cruising?
A boat with solid fiberglass construction below the waterline, built for rugged offshore sailing, easily steered by hand or wind vane; sails that are easily managed by the weakest person on board. I prefer hank on sails for offshore. Ketch rigs are great because the sail area is broken up and the sails are easier to manage than on a similar sized sloop. A good windlass and sturdy dodger are a must. For offshore, a 36-40 boat is good for two people. Much bigger and it gets harder to handle, more costly and more effort to maintain. Much smaller, and the passage will seem rougher and there is less space for everything!

Share a piece of cruising etiquette
When in a bay with only one other boat, don’t anchor next to them.

What is something you think potential cruisers are afraid about that they shouldn't fear?
Not being able to socialize or find food in remote places.

And what is something potential cruisers don't worry about that perhaps they should?
Missing the validation you received from your former career.

What question do you wish I would have asked you besides the ones I've asked you and how would you answer it?

Is cruising worth it? Absolutely!

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10 Questions for Kavenga

Steve & Kay Van Slyke cruised from 1990-1993 and 2004-2006 aboard Kavenga a Lord Nelson 41, cutter hailing from Gig Harbor, WA, USA. From 1990-1993, they traveled around the Pacific Rim -- from Puget Sound, harbor hopping to Mexico, and then on to French Polynesia, American Samoa, Tonga, New Zealand, Fiji, Vanuatu, the Solomons, Pohnpei, Truk/Chuuk, Guam, Japan and across the North Pacific to Vancouver Island.  They left for Mexico again in 2004. You can read more about them on their website. They say: “Steve is the author of “Sex, Lies & Spinnakers” a murder mystery wrapped in a sea adventure available on Amazon in both paperback and Kindle formats.  He was the navigation officer aboard a US Navy ammunition ship in combat areas of the South China Sea during the Vietnam War.  He taught celestial navigation in community college and still tutors cruisers passing through Puerto Vallarta, Mexico.  Kay had never sailed before meeting and marrying Steve.  She learned to cruise during the seven years they owned Kavenga prior to heading south.  She was a member of Tacoma Women’s Sailing Club, which was a big help in raising her skills and confidence. Kay’s first love is horses and it was difficult for her to leave her quarter horse behind. His stable board was the most unusual line item in our cruising budget.  Fortunately she was able to do a little riding every now and then along the way, for example in Mexico and New Zealand.  Together Steve & Kay are the Seven Seas Cruising Station hosts for Banderas Bay, Mexico, which includes Puerto Vallarta, Nuevo Vallarta and La Cruz de Huanacaxtle.  They offer a free paper chart lending library containing charts for virtually all of the Pacific and Caribbean areas.  Steve is one of the net controllers for the daily VHF radio net in Banderas Bay.”

What (if anything) do you wish someone had told you before you started cruising?
It’s not necessary to carry three years worth of TP and paper towels.

What is something you think potential cruisers are afraid about that they shouldn't fear?
Don’t stress over the Marquesas passage.  Of all the long ocean passages we have done it was the most pleasant even though the ITCZ was wider than normal.  The weather is warm, the seas (relatively speaking) are small, the winds usually reliable.

And what is something potential cruisers don't worry about that perhaps they should?
What they’ll do if the GPS system (not their units--the whole system) goes down while they’re making a passage.  Do they know celestial?  Do they have paper charts as back ups?  GPS can go down as a result of solar flares, wars, etc, and of course a lightning strike can take out all of your electronics. 

In your own experience and your experience meeting other cruisers, what are the common reasons people stop cruising?
#1 Starting too late in life and discovering their bodies and spirits are not up to the challenges the sea can throw at them.
#2 Crew issues.  Boats at sea are crucibles.  If you barely get along at the dock, things won’t get better at sea, guaranteed.

In your first year of cruising, what transitions did you find the most difficult?
Since we both left stressful jobs the transition was far from difficult.  Layers of stress peeled away like layers of clothing as we sailed into the warmth of the tropics.  For Kay, leaving her elderly mother and her beloved horse was difficult. 

What are some of your favorite pieces of gear on your boat and why?
#1 Folding bikes, because they allowed us to get our errands done quicker and to see much more of the places we worked so hard to get to.  With a cart towed behind Steve’s bike we could haul 3 jerry cans of diesel, or 2 propane tanks, or 6 bags of groceries.  At Palikulo Bay, Espiritu Santo, Vanuatu it was 8 miles via gravel road to the nearest grocery store and no regular transportation.  #2 Ham/SSB radio because it allowed us to stay in touch with friends and family, as well as get weather and port information.  #3 TV and a huge stock of movies.   #4 steering vane & autopilot (we barely steered 1% of the time).  #5 electric anchor windlass.

Across a year, what do you spend the most money on while cruising?
Food and boat maintenance.

Do you have any specific advice for couples cruising?
Go as soon as you can.  The longer you wait the harder it becomes.  Like us, take a piece of your retirement “out of the middle” and then return to the workplace.  In other words, try to go while still in your 30s or 40s.  If you’re already in your 50s, 60s or beyond, get in shape--everything takes more energy at sea.

How did you recommend securing your vessel while going ashore? And your dinghy?
In most of the Pacific Ocean your boat is relatively safe.  You will likely hear about places that are having problems via the cruiser grapevine as you go.  For example, outboard theft is currently a particular problem in San Blas, Mexico.  If we are in an area where we are concerned about the dinghy we either haul it aboard at night, or at least out of the water, alongside.  Of course you have to use common sense.  The only thing we had stolen anywhere in the Pacific was a pair of binoculars that we left on deck while anchored off a large city with a lot of fishing boat traffic.  Dumb.  Most of the time we did not lock up the boat unless we were going to be gone overnight or not return until after dark.  Again, the best rule is to check with the other boats that arrived ahead of you.

What did you do to make your dream a reality?
We set a five-year goal (that took seven years) with specific financial goals as well as a list of projects to be completed that included specific kinds of training needed; e.g., medical, diving, radio, etc.  Having a specific goal causes you to sacrifice other wants and needs in order to meet your goal and it spurs you on as you see yourself getting closer to it.

What question do you wish I would have asked you besides the ones I've asked you and how would you answer it?

What pieces of gear did you buy that turned out not to be necessary? 

Watermaker.  They may be nice to have in dry countries like Mexico, but even in Mexico good water is now available.  Watermakers are expensive, finicky, and require lots of TLC.  You can buy a heck of a lot of water for $3,000 and not be spending your time changing filters, pickling membranes, and waiting in port for that critical part to arrive.  Water catching is easy in the Pacific.  After our water maker failed en route to the Marquesas, we started catching water and never came close to having empty tanks for the next two years.  We later sold the watermaker and have not replaced it.

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10 Questions for Berlin Express

Stefan and Chloe plus about 50 other crew over 3 years have been cruising since 2007 in Berlin Express (or BE for short), a small boatyard Folkes in Canada, 39ft hailing from Berlin, Germany although they have never been there by boat. Since 2007 they have cruised from Melbourne, Australia to Fiji (eastwards) then to Europe (westwards, of course). You can read more about their travels in their website or contact them by email (stefan_huebbe@hotmail.com).

In your first year of cruising, what transitions did you find the most difficult?
To stop spending money. I was so used to earning money and my cruising kitty seemed kind of endless that I still hit the club bar and went far to often to these money-traps called ship chandleries. Thousands of shiny stainless shackles later, I slowly realized what is really important and I probably sailed for the last 2 years on the same money I spent in the first 6 months.

In your own experience and your experience meeting other cruisers, what are the common reasons people stop cruising?
Speaking for myself, it was the need for money and the desire to discover something other than empty beaches.  I also wanted some new challenges. However well knowing that this will just make me miss cruising again, which is kind of good, because otherwise over time I may not appreciate anymore how amazing the sailing life can be.

Hard to say about others. Reckon there are many who see cruising more as sight seeing and as a proving ground. They haste around the world in flash boats, take photos for the web page and then are happy to return home with some adventures stories. And this is more than fine, too. Only a few find a sustainable long term-stimulating lifestyle in cruising, I guess... looking into any anchorage you will also see these two groups of sailors.

Is there a place you visited where you wish you could have stayed longer?
The Pacific! Leaving Australia, I sailed there first and had no idea what I had there until I left 6 months later. I am looking forward to the day I'll be back there with heaps of time sailing all they way east to west.

Why did you decide to cruise?
I always sailed and loved the sea. I just needed to do it 100% to fully be one with this amazing energy. Especially passages and remote places are my thing because they give you something you can never experience on charters or weekend sails. I believe cruising is the only way how you can actually
find real freedom.

Describe a "typical day" at anchor on your boat
Sleeping-in avoiding any thoughts about a dragging anchor. Long breakfast ignoring the long list of maintenance needing to be done. Just doing nothing and ignoring the clouds that could make this peaceful anchorage very uncomfortable. Finally arriving at the happy hour and realizing that this is actually heaven! maybe a little occasional scream of joy depending on if we are alone in the anchorage or not.

What did you do to make your dream a reality?
Saved like there is no tomorrow.

Describe the compromises (if any) that you have made in your cruising in order to stay on budget
I always did everything myself on the boat which really helps to save money but in the beginning I still treated myself to some upgrades here and there like a newish Spinaker, a Pactor-modem, new chain when the old one was still doing the job or overpriced 'International' paint, etc. Later I discovered so many alternative ways to get these things much cheaper. A sail can mostly be fixed even and there are good second hand ones, there is an alternative to Pactor and Satellite-phone, chain doesn't fail just because it starts slightly to corrode and the fishermen always know where to get the cheapest and best paint.

Describe a perfect cruising moment that will make cruisers-to-be drool with anticipation
When you feel that the boat is perfectly balanced and running fast with great easy in a fresh breeze with an unobstructed horizon around you. Playful in tune with the nature's forces, cutting through the water like a dolphin. You feel the movements through your whole body and know that this is very special. (Again maybe a small scream of joy as there is no one around for hundreds or thousands of miles other than your friends...)

Finish this sentence. "Generally when I am provisioning..."
I think the huge pile of Asia-noodles and cookies will last at least for half a year... only to find them all gone in a month.

What question do you wish I would have asked you besides the ones I've asked you and how would you answer it?

Do you think cruising has changed over the decades?

Yes! I can only envy the pioneers who sailed when most islands had no resorts and another boat in an anchorage was a pleasant surprise. Working with essentials on a small boat and being closer to the real thing looking at the barometer and not Navtex. But on the other hand,  I am still out with the sextant by over 50miles, so I will quietly sit down and just be grateful for what we still can experience out there.

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10 Questions for Sarana

Eric & Sherrell have been cruising since 2003 aboard Sarana, a Pacific Seacraft / Mariah 31hailing from Seattle, WA, USA. Over that time they have traveled through Alaska, Canada, from the US down to Ecuador and everywhere in between. You can read more about their journey on their website. They say: We write electronic cruising guides for Central America that covers dozens of areas that have been completely unexplored by previous guide books.  Our Central American guide books are here and we have some free guides including the first guide ever written to Pacific Colombia. Also we forgot to mention our two cats (Jezebel and Jordan) as part of the crew...but they don't really crew very much.

What is something you think potential cruisers are afraid about that they shouldn't fear? And what is something potential cruisers don't worry about that perhaps they should?
We were at first worried about finding fresh food and water when we left developed areas for more remote locations.  Even if you don't have refrigeration or a watermaker (like us) you'll always find at least basic produce and fresh purified water.  And we've been surprised how much water we can catch during a rainstorm.  Naturally you'll need to practice conserving water use if you don't have a watermaker to extend your range.  We average 1 gallon per day per person.

Also we worried about breaking something important.  As it turns out things always break.  Worrying about it doesn't help.  We try to keep everything as simple as possible so that we can make our replacements and keep going.  There are a lot of talented mechanics and machine shops out there to help you in a pinch.

What (if anything) do you wish someone had told you before you started cruising?
Don't read all those sea disaster books.  They scare you more than help you.

What piece(s) of gear would you leave on the dock next time? Why?
On a small boat this isn't usually a problem.  You don't have much space for “extra” stuff.  But if we weren't sure about something we would try to bring it as you can easily trade or sell it to other people along the way.

In your own experience and your experience meeting other cruisers, what are the common reasons people stop cruising?
Common reasons the people we know who quit:
1. Don't like cruising.  It can be laborious, uncomfortable and lacking stimulation provided by the rat-race.
2. Need money.  Big expensive boats, poor budgeting, expensive equipment failures, too much partying, providing for kids are some of the reasons cruises have a limited duration.
3. Family needs.  Aging parents who need care.  Pull of new grand children draw grandparents home.
4. Ego collapse.  The work environment provided immediate feedback for your work.  After decades of work=rewards it can be difficult to adapt to work=nothing.  Whether people liked their jobs or not, the sudden
lack of any type of acknowledgment (money) can be difficult.  Many people return to their careers.
5. Medical problems.  Sometimes people have physical issues that develop during their travels and they can no longer cruise.

We were shocked to discover that in this age of jet travel few people live on their boat year round.  The majority of people we know fly “home” once a year.  Perhaps this helps relieve some of problems that
has caused others to quit.  There are a lot of cruisers that only live on their boats for part of the year.

In your first year of cruising, what transitions did you find the most difficult?
Training our family that we can not always be available took many months if not years.  The internet has helped make us more available however this is still an on-going problem.
Sadly we lost a few friends because they were unwilling to accept our new lifestyle whether through lack of understanding or envy or whatever.  They quickly drifted away.

Are you attracted more to sailing itself or cruising-as-travel and has that changed over time?
Eric:  I started off racing.  So I love sailing especially in a competitive fashion.  However I wouldn't want to just sail round and round like Benard Motissier.  I love going new places, learning new languages, and experiencing different cultures.  In a way I'm a xenophile.  I am much less interested to go someplace I've been than to go somewhere new.

Sherrell:  I love traveling and experiencing new cultures especially through the small local villages that I would otherwise never experience without a sailboat.  Sailing between these places is an added bonus.

What is something about the cruising culture you like and what is something you dislike?
Sherrell:  I like the independent minded and spirited individuals who make up this culture and the unique things they bring to my life's experience.  What I don't like about the cruising culture is in large cruising populations such as in Mexico there tends to be cliques with group activities.  They tend to create an insular world and don't mix with locals or learn the language beyond “Una mas cerveza por favor.”

Eric:  There are a lot of knowledgeable people who are willing to help out if you are stuck on a problem.  The downside is there are a lot of knowledgeable people who are too willing to help out if you are stuck
on a problem.

What has been the most affordable area to cruise and the most expensive? What was affordable or expensive about each area?
We've been able to stick to our budget even in the USA, but you have to make sacrifices like not eating out or staying in marinas.  This goes true for other countries too.  You can spend lots of money even in the cheapest countries.  A better strategy for controlling your budget is to just live within your means and spoil yourself once in a while.  Saying that, we have found all of Latin America in general to be inexpensive with some variations between countries.

Have you found "trade goods" to be useful on your cruise? If so, what kinds?
We haven't traded anything other than technical skills for services. However there are some very remote villages where gasoline, d-batteries, school supplies and some clothing are appreciated more than currency.  These places are very few as most of Latin America is fairly well industrialized.

What question do you wish I would have asked you besides the ones I've asked you and how would you answer it?

Eric:  What is one piece of advice you have to people who want to go cruising?

Stop making to-do lists.  Go use your boat as if you are cruising.  Use the crap out of it.  Your priorities will do a 180 degree flip as you find more important things to worry about than the color of your sail covers.  Practice staying on a budget, anchoring out, repairing everything yourself, using your alternative energy, using your navigation gear, your running rigging and all the little things of living on a boat that you can't do while sitting at a dock. Forget the books, websites, forums, etc. and get some personal time with your boat.  It will do a world of good to help you filter out the noise and find the important things in your life – even if that answer is that you don't like cruising.

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10 Questions for Arctracer

Jerry & Nina are currently cruising on Arctracer, a Fastback 43 (Catamaran) hailing from Norwich, Vermont, USA. Since 1994, they have cruised through the East Coast USA, Caribbean, Pacific, New Zealand, Australia, & Southeast Asia. They sailed a traditional 45' steel gaff-rigged schooner from Maine to Australia, and then traded it in 2001 for their catamaran. Readers can learn more about their voyage on their website or through email (ninajerry@arctracer.com).

In your first year of cruising, what transitions did you find the most difficult?
Most difficult was being away from our families and out of contact with them, especially on our first Thanksgiving aboard. We got together with other cruisers for a pig roast, but that wasn't as good as a family reunion. In those days we had no mobile phone and no email aboard. Now it is much easier to keep in touch with friends and families, so this transition should not be as difficult for new cruisers today.

How would you recommend that someone prepares to cruise?
Read everything, talk to cruisers, join SSCA and sail as much as possible. Once you move aboard you are still learning and preparing so take easy steps at first. Don't plan big adventures until you have adjusted to
cruising.  Make your lifestyle fun. You are cruising so don't adopt racing attitudes. Reduce sail in rough seas to keep things comfortable for everyone aboard. Don't get trapped into doing something you'd rather not
just to meet a deadline. (For example, sailing into weather you don't like in order to meet someone on a particular date.) We spent three years along the East Coast and in the Caribbean learning to cruise before we did any long-distance sailing.

Describe a positive experience you have had with local people somewhere you have visited?
Getting to know local people, their customs and beliefs has given us great pleasure in almost every place we have visited. We've had many positive experiences, especially on Pacific islands where we got to know the people and could help them in various ways.
Here are some examples: We shared meals ashore and on our boat in the Marshall Islands, drank kava with groups on several islands in Fiji, played with children, sang with locals, taught school children in Indonesia, picnicked with locals in the Cook Islands,  learned how to collect shellfish and prepare them the local way  in Kiribati, traded clothes for local produce in Guadalcanal, sponsored a model outrigger canoe race in the Louisiades, and repaired a solar power system and other equipment in Tikopia. We took locals aboard from several islands for overnight fishing trips, to visit their ancestral atoll in New Caledonia, took a family for two weeks to a Melanesian Arts Festival in Vanuatu and slept on crowded ferryboat decks on the Irrawaddy River in Burma.

In your own experience and your experience meeting cruising couples, can you convince a reluctant partner to go cruising and if so, how?
Most people are reluctant because they do not understand the risks of cruising and are afraid of unknowns. Education and experience are needed to change their minds. Don't push too hard. Think long-term. Read about people who have gone cruising and discuss their experiences. Gather cruising information of all sorts and make it available to your partner too. Take tiny steps if that is all your partner can handle. For example, rent a rowboat on a lake for an afternoon and you will be essentially learning to use a dinghy. Take sailing lessons in a school where everything is safe. As your partner gains skills and knowledge you can take bigger steps such as chartering a boat for a few days with more experienced friends. The key is to proceed slowly enough for you both to be comfortable with what you are doing. Consider everything to be a trial. Don't commit yourselves to doing anything for a long time until you've actually tried it for a while. Getting a really solid cruising boat can be a big factor in relieving a partner's fears.

Across a year, what do you spend the most money on while cruising?
Boat maintenance. That includes haulouts for antifouling, new equipment, new rigging and new sails.

How has cruising affected your personal relationships?
This life has greatly strengthened the relationship between the two of us. One cruiser expressed it as one brain in two bodies. We often know what the other is thinking before a word is spoken. We know we can depend on each other completely, and know how we will each react in almost any situation.

What are some of your favorite pieces of gear on your boat and why?
The electric windlass has made pulling up the anchor quick and easy, compared to the manual windlass we once had.

What is something that you read or heard about cruising, that you didn't find to be true?
That it is very dangerous. We feel cruising is less dangerous than driving on Interstate highways. We also found more food available in more places than we expected.

Where was your favorite place to visit and why?
This is impossible to answer. Almost every place where we have stayed for a while has some favorite aspect such as weather, scenery, wildlife, local people, culture, history, food, and the other cruisers who were there. We especially liked small places in the Pacific which were off the beaten path, but also liked the modern facilities of countries such as New Zealand and Australia.

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10 Questions for Moorea

Kelly & Kelly cruised from 2005 to 2009 aboard Moorea, a Dufour, 35’ hailing from Everett, WA, USA. They completed a circumnavigation including 31 countries and 35,000 nautical miles (West Coast USA, Mexico, South Pacific, New Zealand, Indonesia, Thailand, Maldives, Red Sea, Turkey, Mediterranean, Caribbean, Panama, Costa Rica, Mexico, then back to Washington). You can read more about them on their website, via email (kk_moorea@hotmail.com), or their site Yachtie Track.

How would you recommend that someone prepares to cruise?

• Know your boat
• Equip with essentials (extra sails, spare parts) and safety gear
• Tie up all loose ends that would keep you ashore

There was always a list of equipment we wanted, like a water maker and a long list of maintenance “to do’s”. We realized we could take care of those things along the way and decided to that these lists should not keep us at the dock

Share a piece of cruising etiquette

This occurs in over crowded anchorages….
When hailing another vessel, if they do not respond, stop calling every ten minutes (even every fifteen or twenty minutes). The friends that are not answering are doing what cruisers are supposed to be doing, getting away from it all and they may not be back on to the boat for hours. Or they may have turned off their radio since they were tired of hearing to many boats needlessly hailing each other.

In your own experience and your experience meeting other cruisers, what are the common reasons people stop cruising?
1. Money runs out
2. A spouse or the kid(s) want to stop
3. Only wanted to cruise for a short time (1 - 1 ½ years)
4. Responsibilities back home call them back

In your first year of cruising, what transitions did you find the most difficult?

Fortunately living on the hook wasn’t a big issue since we lived on our boat at the dock for a few years and were accustomed to living in a small space. But learning to live without a vehicle and getting around without one can be a challenge at times.

What is something about the cruising culture you like and what is something you dislike?

Cruisers have a great way of spreading information. But like the old child’s game of “telephone” the stories become exaggerated or distorted. Keep in mind that the experience of one cruiser will not always be yours and sometimes you need to discover the truth yourself.

How do you fund your cruise?

Sold the house to buy our older and affordable boat then lived frugally on her for over two years to save for the cruising kitty.

Do you have any specific advice for couples cruising?

Even with the freedoms found with cruising. It is easy to get caught up in the group mentality or stay in a pack. Break away from time to time and explore areas on your own.

What did you do to make your dream a reality?

Researched the life then decided to live it.

Describe a perfect cruising moment that will make cruisers-to-be drool with anticipation.

We were anchored at the atoll Makemo in the Tuamotus. The bay was so clear we could see our anchor 40 feet below. The coral popped with color as vibrant fish darted in and out of the reef. This island had some of the best snorkeling.

The small village contained a couple of one room stores selling canned goods and simple trinkets. Kids were fishing on the pier and some were hunting hermit crabs. I spoke with a few, but my French was as bad as their English.

Later that day, a man I had briefly said hello to on shore motored up to our boat. He was holding a Mahi Mahi, about 4 feet long, which he gave to us. Didn’t ask for money or a trade…just simply gave us a gift. This is one example of the many positive experiences we had with locals.

What question do you wish I would have asked you besides the ones I've asked you and how would you answer it?

What is life like after cruising?

We have been back for a year and a half. We don’t mention our experience much to other people. When we have they are interested in it for five minutes, then tire of the conversation. It’s a life we love and plan to get back into when we “really” retire. Next time I can see spending six to eight months on the sea and three months on land.

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10 Questions for Aliisa

Lauri cruised from 1998, joined by Annina since 2008, aboard Aliisa, a John Pugh Moonwind, backyard built steel sloop 32 ft / 9.75 m hailing from Cairns, QLD, Australia. Aliisa cruised locally until 2000, around Papua New Guinea in 2001, and world cruising from 2004 until they recently returned home on November 2010. You can learn more about their travels on their website.

What (if anything) do you wish someone had told you before you started cruising?
Nothing. I always wanted to find out for myself. Nobody can tell me what my experience will be.

Can you think of a sailing tip (e.g., sail trim, sail combination) specific to offshore passages (e.g., related to swells)?
These things are always specific to the yacht in question as well as to the style of sailing. On long tradewind passages I often keep the mainsail double reefed and let the genoa (on furler) to do most of the work. Squalls are easy to deal with as you only need to pull in some of the genoa and not touch the main. This also takes a lot of  pressure off the helm which in a small budget is an important way to extend the life of the autopilot. It’s not the fastest combination, but lazy and comfortable.

What is the most difficult aspect of the cruising lifestyle?
For me it was always money. Everything else is easy.

Departure from home port is probably the most difficult aspect of the entire cruising life. After that the only difficult aspect for me was money. There is no long version of this answer. Apart from financing the lifestyle, I found everything in the cruising lifestyle easy. Stress and the sense of difficulty comes from the inside, not outside. Someone might suggest that dealing with tens of corrupt officials during a three-day battle with red tape in order to clear into some third world country is “difficult”. I would call it an adventure and a fantastic opportunity to meet local people and learn about their customs and culture.

What are some of your favorite pieces of gear on your boat and why?
Fridge – because life is too short not to enjoy cold drinks, cheese and butter.

One line reefing – because I mosly single hand the passages.

SSB + Pactor  – ‘cause I like to communicate and I love studying the weather.

Autopilot – Any type of self-steering will do, as long as it’s not myself.

In your own experience and your experience meeting other cruisers, what are the common reasons people stop cruising?
Everyone would have their own reasons and it’s not an important question to others. It is a private decision. Whether the reason is  family, money, career, kids, old age or whatever, the important thing is that we all make our own decisions.

That’s called FREEDOM. Cruising is only one way to express freedom. Stopping it is another.

In your first year of cruising, what transitions did you find the most difficult?
Learning to fix things and learning about tools, materials, electrics, electronics, mechanics, paints ... the list is almost endless.

Becoming self-sufficient is a long road.

What do you miss about living on land?
Seeing friends face to face, not just on facebook. Being  part of a community where your existence matters, knowing that your friends are not far away.

Describe the compromises (if any) that you have made in your cruising in order to stay on budget
Every imaginable compromise whenever needed. Generally it has come down to departing with what you have and not worry too much about what you don’t have.

I find it difficult to answer this question. In a sense I feel that I have been a very uncompromising person. I spend until it’s all gone and then go to work to get more. I left Australia 2004 and ran out of money in South Africa, 18 months later. My old man bailed me out and I arrived in Finland late 2006 with 36 bucks in my pocket. Obviously I have always struggled to even HAVE a budget, let alone stick to one. So my answer to the question is: “I didn’t stay in any budget and if I ever had any, I broke them all.” Compromises I made? Well, to stop for 20 months in Finland and working 2 jobs while doing a complete refit before and after work, that surely was a compromise but not the first one.

Departing Australia without insurance, without a life raft, without a radar, without a log, without SSB radio and without much money was also a compromise. I went with what I had. Not spending 10 or 15 years cruising but instead returning to Australia by the end of 2010 order to find work again was also a compromise. We’ll be living on land for some time now – probably several years – but we haven’t stopped cruising, we’re just compromising for a while.

“Waste your money and you’re only out of money, but waste your time and you’ve lost a part of your life.” (Michael Leboeuf)

What do you find most exciting about your cruising life?
I’m a xenophile, so the answer  must be the different people, different cultures and  flavours. The chance to learn a little more about the world and to understand why it is what it is and why people are what they are.

Local people in the destination have always been more interesting to me than other cruisers in the anchorage.

What question do you wish I would have asked you besides the ones I've asked you and how would you answer it?

What’s your favourite animal

Homo sapiens

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10 Questions for Cherokee 2

Peter and Renate Zedalis began cruising in April 2004 and say they plan to continue into the distant future. Cherokee 2 is a 1973 Morgan Out Island 41 hailing from Miami, Florida, USA. They say “We have lived aboard for over 15 years in the Florida Keys and love being on the water. My husband Pete worked many years as a professional captain, and spend many years cruising Florida waters whether it was teaching sailing, learning to live a board or fully crewed charters, which we enjoyed doing together. We also managed a charter company together as well. Our retirement dream was to cruise farther a field. In April 2004 we sailed from our homeport of Marathon Florida for Key West to wait for weather conditions for our first leg which would take us to Isla Mujeres Mexico. From there we cruised down the Mexican coast to Belize, Guatemala, Honduras and the Bay Islands, around Cabo Gracia a Dios down to Isla Providencia and Isla San Andres, then on to Bocas del Toro in Panama. After that with stops in between at Colon, Portobelo, and Linton Panama came the fabulous San Blas Islands and Cartagena Colombia.”

Where was your favorite place to visit and why?
Our favorite places to cruise so far are the San Blas Island of Panama. They are still remote with beautiful coconut palm covered islands and sandy beaches. The waters of the San Blas are wonderful for snorkeling and diving. There are two seasons here; dry season and rainy season. Dry season brings predominant NE winds with higher sea states. During rainy season the winds vary and at times will be very light and the seas at this time are flat calm making it possible to snorkel the out side of the reef. This is our favorite time of year even so it does get a lot warmer with out the breeze.

One of the best things about this area is that it is a land with out hurricanes. The local Kuna people inhabit many of the islands. They are small in stature, are great sailors and fishermen. So we never have a shortage of lobster or crab. We also enjoy the fishing here and have caught large Wahoo offshore and big Grouper near the many reefs that can be found here in these beautiful waters. For provisioning civilization is 43NM to 75NM away. Depending on whether we choose to provision from Linton by bus or go all the way to Shelter Bay Marina in Colon. Panama City also is not far, and we can get almost anything we need there.

So, we are still here and have not yet decided where we want to cruise to next.

What is something about the cruising culture you like and what is something you dislike?
The cruising community is wonderful. Fellow cruisers are always willing to land hand or even offer up their spare parts to some one in need. We are always making new friends and enjoy potlucks, book and dvd exchanges or hosting a small gathering on our own vessel. Even getting together for games. It is like living in a small community and knowing all your neighbors.

The only thing that I dislike is the fact that we are all on the move, so there fore we have to say goodbye to some truly wonderful people and friends. Some we see again with others we are only able to stay in touch via e-mail.

What is the key to making the cruising life enjoyable?
We think the key to making the cruising life enjoyable is the same as anything else in life. You have got to want to do it and give yourself a few amenities. Living like you are camping out is not the answer.
If a small thing like a microwave oven is important then that is what should be on the boat. Good refrigeration is very important to us. Whether it is that or some other item the secret is to be comfortable and feel safe on your boat.

How do you recommend securing your vessel while going ashore, and your dinghy?
First of all we make sure that the boat is securely anchored. There is nothing like coming back from shore and discovering that your vessel is no longer where she had been left. Than before going ashore we close and lock all hatches and companionways.

Some people use alarms such as motion detectors. We do not have either since we cruise with our cat Sam, and he would set them off constantly.

As for the dinghy, we have a special bar that locks the motor on to the dinghy. We had ours made out of stainless but thy are available in most marine stores. We also have a cable to lock the dinghy to the dock. Most places we have left the dinghy we have not had to cable it to the dock. If we do not feel comfortable with a certain anchorage or dinghy dock we try to avoid it and look for an alternative.

Can you think of a sailing tip (e.g., sail trim, sail combination) specific to offshore passages (e.g., related to swells)?
We really can’t give a sailing tip because each passage is different and each vessel sails and handles differently. We use the main sail at all times because it gives stability to the boat. We also have a staysail, which is used more than the genoa. It is better for going to weather, and it is self- tending. But what sail combination works best depends on the boat and weather and sea condition.

The most important thing is to pay attention to the weather. If conditions are not right, wait. We are cruising we are not in a hurry. As for swells; if they are far apart and the boat is moving well they can be comfortable even if large.

Describe a "typical day" at anchor on your boat.
Our day begins with on or two radio nets that keep us in touch with the cruising community. I am also a net controller for the Panama connection net one day a week.

We are early riser and usually have our breakfast before the net starts at 08:30 hrs. After the net there is always boat maintenance. After maintenance and cleaning it might be a laundry day. I am lucky to have a washing machine now at that makes that little chore a lot easier.

When we are in San Blas I spend a lot of time baking. We like fresh bread. There is always something to do, and some item that needs fixing.

After the chores are done we like to go for a dive, and rest of the day is for reading, relaxing or spending time with friends. I can honestly say we are never bored.

In your first year of cruising, what transitions did you find the most difficult?
The transition was an easy one since we already lived aboard for several years on a mooring, and went to the dock only to install new rigging, new engine, generator and a new refrigeration system. We actually prefer living away from the dock. At times it is necessary to be in a marina for a while.

What mistakes did you make in your first year of cruising?
I can think of three things.

The first - we should have bought a new mainsail before we left. Our main blew out on our first passage from Key West, Fl. to Isla Mujeres, Mexico. Which made last few miles a lot harder with deteriorating weather conditions.

The second thing is not being security conscious enough. We had left our dinghy with the motor on in the water overnight and it was stolen. We were lucky to find the dinghy the next day but the bow compartment had been punctured with an ice pick in an attempt to sink it. It had 50 holes. We were able to patch and did use it until last year but it never really did hold air well after that and of course we had the expense of another motor.

The third is having purchased inadequate davits. We removed them in Guatemala, and had an arch built. It is very strong and we can carry the dinghy on the arch even in heavy seas.

Describe the compromises (if any) that you have made in your cruising in order to stay on budget.
We have not had to make any compromises, because when we decided to go cruising we sold our house and car so that we would not have the extra expense of maintaining them. We are full time cruisers, and that simplifies our lifestyle and budget.

What question do you wish I would have asked you besides the ones I've asked you and how would you answer it?

In your opinion what is the most important piece of equipment on your boat?

Personally that would be the engine. Any cruising boat should have good, reliable strong engine. It can get you out of trouble in adverse wind direction or trying to claw of a lee shore. With a high output alternator it will also give your batteries a good charge. Even with today’s wind generators and solar panels is this part of the world we have many day where there is no wind and no sunshine. So invariably the engine has to be run to supply the vessel with power.

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10 Questions for Shibui

Brian & Mary Alice O’Neill have been cruising since 1987 aboard Shibui, a Norseman 447 (47’) hailing from Seattle, WA, USA. From 1987 – 1989 they sailed through the South Pacific to NZ (on different boat which they sold there). From 1992 to 1997 they completed a circumnavigation (Mexico to New Zealand via South Pacific: French Polynesia, Cook Is.; Niue; Tonga; Fiji, New Zealand. New Zealand to Mediterranean via the Red Sea: New Caledonia, Vanuatu, Solomon Islands, PNG, Indonesia, Borneo, Singapore, Malaysia, Thailand, Sri Lanka, Djibouti, Eritrea, Egypt, Israel, Cyprus, Turkey, Greece, Italy, Spain. Atlantic Crossing: Gibralter; Canary Is. to Caribbean. West Coast of Central and North America via the Panama Canal). Since August 2009 they have been cruising Hawaii; Palmyra Reef; Micronesia (Marshall Islands, Kwajalene, Kosrae, Pohnpei, Yap). I caught up with them via email at the end of 2010 in Palau. You can see some of their photos on their web album or contact them via email (svshibui@gmail.com).

What (if anything) do you wish someone had told you before you started cruising?
Can’t think of anything specific. One of the fun things about cruising is learning, whether it be about boat maintenance, navigation, cultures, geography, history.  It’s the best liberal arts education you can get.  Perhaps I would caution people to keep the boat systems simple and have a backup system for everything.

Is there a place you visited where you wish you could have stayed longer?
New Zealand, Turkey and now Palau.  After 7 months of cruising Palau it will be difficult to leave although we are looking forward to our next port of call in the Philippine Islands.

What is your most common sail combination on passage?
Current trip: Reef in main with poled out jib.  We had brisk NE tradewinds on this journey. Generally we have tried to plan voyages where the wind is behind the beam.  Going downwind if the winds are light we fly a traditional chute otherwise we use a poled out yankee.  Going to weather in light air we use a spectra 125 percent.  When the winds get to around 12 knots true, we switch to a 95 percent yankee.  If the winds get to around 20 knots (true) we rig our staysail and get rid of the headsail.  Because we have been in the trades on this voyage we have only had to motor for a few hours.

Over the time that you have been cruising, has the world of cruising changed?
YES!  There are more people out cruising with the advent of GPS and other electronic devices.  Mexico has become much more crowded with sailors and power yachts in the past 20 years.  The Mexican's have capitalized on the yacht boom by building many first class marinas, most of which are expensive.  However, they are fun to visit, we just try and limit how long we stay at a marina.  We hear that Central America is also getting somewhat crowded.  All this said, I think a person can still find many unspoiled parts of the world.  Our present voyage through Micronesia has given us wonderful opportunities to explore remote islands and learn their history and culture.Also, Sailmail and the internet make communication much easier.

Describe the compromises (if any) that you have made in your cruising in order to stay on budget
Hasn’t been necessary.

In your own experience and your experience meeting other cruisers, what are the common reasons people stop cruising?
A diverse variety of reasons from health, finances, family issues to looking for something else to do. 

In your first year of cruising, what transitions did you find the most difficult?
Learning how the boat performed in a variety of conditions. On our earlier voyages getting mail and staying in contact was very difficult.  Also getting money was a big issue.  With the advent of Sailmail, ATMs and other electronic media we can now stay in contact with family and friends.   Also, when we first started cruising we did not anticipate how much of our time would be spent doing boat maintenance.  Generally we find traveling on the ocean a wonderful experience and each new country a  great learning experience.

Have you found "trade goods" to be useful on your cruise? If so, what kinds?
We always carry school supplies and after visiting the chief the school is our next stop.  Also appreciated are t-shirts, food, candy, balloons, videos. Also willingness to assist them with any specific needs they may have such as outboard motor repair.

Which spares do you wish you had more of? Less of?
More of: Spare parts for the generator.
Less off – nothing  We don’t tend to overload the boat.

What question do you wish I would have asked you besides the ones I've asked you and how would you answer it?

What are your future cruising plans? 

Philippines to Japan and home to Bainbridge Island, WA via Alaska. We will be happy to respond to any questions about our journey from readers via email.

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