Showing posts with label lesson. Show all posts
Showing posts with label lesson. Show all posts

29 September 2011

10 Questions for Gallivanter

Kirk, Catherine & Stuart began cruising in 1994. They have cruised in two vessels since that time: Polly Brooks, a Worldcruiser Pilothouse 37 and Gallivanter, a Hylas 47 they turned into a 49 by adding a new style transom. They started in Hawaii and sailed west on an "Orange Peel" course across four oceans. They have yet to cross their outbound track in 40,0000nm. Kirk’s former career involved manned submersibles.

What are some of your favorite pieces of gear on your boat and why?

Anchor Windlass, chart plotter, autopilot - like having a strong crew (physically & mentally) who are always eager to help, don't eat much, get in the way or complain.

What is your biggest lesson learned?

Make your own choices & decisions - avoid the "Pack Mentality".

Where was your favorite place to visit and why?

Caribbean, Fiji, SE Asia, Turkey, Malta, Spain - Interesting cultures, affordable, availability of services & supplies.

What do you think is a common cruising myth?

That it's always easy and cocktails are served at sunset every evening.

In your experience, how much does cruising cost?

It costs everything you've got.

How would you recommend that someone prepares to cruise?

Go now. One can never be fully prepared.

Describe a positive experience you have had with local people somewhere you have visited.

STARGAZING with traditional navigators on the beach of an uninhabited atoll in the Caroline Islands. Dancing with savages in Papua New Guinea.

With the benefit of hindsight, what are the boat selection criteria you would use to purchase a boat for long term cruising?

Choose a strong boat purposely built & designed by a reputable team. One-off racing boats do not necessarily make for a comfortable cruising boat.

What is difficult for the parents of cruising children and what is difficult for the children themselves?

Kids add another level of enjoyment. I have found no difficulty added when our son was born and joined the crew. Lego is his one best entertainment.

What question do you wish I would have asked you besides the ones I've asked you and how would you answer it?

What has been the hardest part of this lifestyle?

Having to learn how to say "Goodbye" in so many languages.

15 August 2011

10 Questions for Reflections No. 1

ref1 Alex Kao sailed out of Vancouver BC in the Fall of 2007 on Reflections No. 1, an Alexander 30. He now owns a Moody Salar 40 with his wife Leah and they plan to fix her up, save money for the next two years and take off again.

Alex says: I moved onto a Cheetah 26 when I was 20 and lived and sailed around Vancouver. 5 years later I sold her and I spent 2 months backpacking Venezuela and Tobago then lived in an apartment for 4 months. I missed the boating life so I bought and moved on to "Reflections No. 1". I spent the next  5 years sailing the BC coast and testing and fixing her up. She is a Alexander 30 sail boat. It is like an Alberg 30. The builder took a Gulf Island 29 mold and raised the freeboard about a foot. It has a 3/4 full keel. It is 29'6" long.  My first leg was Victoria to San Diego. I took 2 crew: Greg and Jen. We did the trip in September. I left the boat in San Diego and returned to Vancouver to finish the work year. I returned on Dec 20 and  solo sailed from San Diego to Puerto Escondido, Mexico stopping along the way.  Then met a surfer named Jeremy and sailed to El Salvador. I wanted crew to cross the Gulf of Twanapec. I put the boat in a boat yard in May 2008 and returned to Vancouver to work. I returned to the boat at Christmas 2009.  I did a lot of inland travel, ran a small boat yard and did a lot of fishing trips off the coast of El Salvador. Greg came down again in 2009 and sailed from El Salvador to Costa Rica with me. Leah, my now wife sailed from Costa Rica back to El Salvador in 2009. I also solo sailed from El Salvador to Nicaragua in 2009.  I put the boat is storage again in May 2009 and returned to Vancouver to work. Leah and I came down together on Jan, 1 2010 and sailed from El Salvador to Costa Rica, Panama, Galapagos, Marqueses and Hawaii. I sailed solo from Hawaii to Port Renfrew BC and back to Vancouver in a August 2010. 

What is something that you read or heard about cruising, that you didn't find to be true?
That you need all of this equipment and toys. We got by with out a water maker, radar, sat phone, our SSB only received and had a safe and great time but some other cruisers thought we were nuts. At every port I saw someone fixing or cleaning a water maker. If I remember right I could get 5 gallons of bottled water for $2.50 a most places.

How do you fund your cruise?
I worked along the way by fixing other cruisers boats and returned to Canada to work full time. I am a Marine diesel mechanic and worked along the way and when I ran out of money or hurricane season  I returned to Vancouver to work.

What is your biggest lesson learned?
I learnt a lot about weather and how slow a hurricane travels. When we were sailing from Marquises to Hawaii. There were 2 hurricanes off Mexico, 1000 miles away from us. We saw them on weather fax and were nervous until we found how slow they move.

Finish this sentence. "Generally when I am provisioning..."
I buy too much canned food and not enough fresh. I forget how long fresh food will last.

Describe a perfect cruising moment that will make cruisers-to-be drool with anticipation
We stopped at a island in Northwest Panama and had it to our selves for 5 days and never saw anyone else. It was so desolate I could get coconuts with out climbing trees.

What do you think is a common cruising myth
We had some smooth passages on a 29 footer (Galapagos to Marqueses - 24 days). Sure it would be more comfortable on a bigger boat but you sure don't need a 45-50 footer like most of the boats we saw out there.

ref2 When have you felt most in danger and what was the source?
We had a freighter sneak up on us. We were doing 18 min watches. It was Leah's watch and I was awake reading. I heard the VHF buzz and since we we 1000 miles from anywhere I knew there must be another boat around. I went up and scanned the horizon. The sun was setting and we had the main out all the way on a broad broad reach. The freighter must had been in the sun and I didn't see it. I went back down below, 5 min later we were hit by a bigger than normal wave. I commented to Leah about it but didn't get up. 1 min later we were hailed by the freighter, I popped up to the deck and it was a quarter mile away after passing in front us.

Is there something you wish you had bought or installed before starting cruising?
After that freighter scare I bought a AIS receiver in Hawaii. I love it and wouldn't go off shore again with out one.

What was the most affordable area to cruise and the most expensive? What was affordable or cheap about each area?
In Panama beer in the grocery store was 35 cents but every cab driver charged different prices for the same ride. In Marquesas restaurant food when available cost a lot but you could trade for fruit and veggies. Galapagos burgers were $3.50.

11 July 2011

10 Questions for Scream

Scream in SuwarrowDarusha Wehm and Steven Ensslen began cruising in 2008 aboard Scream, a Huntingford custom 45' hailing from Victoria, BC, Canada. They left British Columbia heading down the Pacific coast of the Americas to Ecuador, over to the Galápagos, then across the Pacific to the Marquesas.  From there, they sailed to New Zealand via French Polynesia, the Cook Islands, Samoa and Tonga. You can read more about their voyage on their website.

In your first year of cruising, what transitions did you find the most difficult?
It was tough leaving people and places so quickly.  At the time it seemed like we'd never see folks we'd really gotten to like again.  It also took us a long time to settle into a watch schedule that worked for us.  We kept following the advice of other cruisers and trying to do what worked for them, even though we thought there was a better way for us, but no one was doing it.  Eventually, we just tried it anyway, and it turned out to be the most successful.

Steven found leaving his job difficult.  Our society expects everyone to be busy making money, and looks down on those who aren't.

What piece(s) of gear would you leave on the dock next time? Why?
Scream is a generously sized boat.  We have lots of stuff on board that we rarely use, like our folding bicycles and inflatable kayaks. So while there are things that we have never used, I'm not sure that I'd leave anything behind.  That having been said, there are cruisers trying to sell storm anchors and drogues everywhere and I don't know of any experienced cruiser who doesn’t sail high latitudes who thinks that they are worth the space they take up.

Tell me your favorite thing about your boat.
Darusha — Scream is a heavy double ender, very stable in a sea.  We've never been pooped and with our enclosed cockpit we almost always stay dry.  I love that we have a cockpit that is comfortable enough to live in at sea (and anchor) and that the boat feels secure.

Steven — The enclosed cockpit.  When you're taking waves and spray all the way to the stern while you're trying to talk to the coasties on the VHF, it really helps not to be covered in salt water.  More typically, it is nice to be out of the rain.

What is something that you read or heard about cruising, that you didn't find to be true?
We heard a lot of warnings about theft, especially in Costa Rica.  I think we might have had a better experience If we'd been less wary and actually been robbed.  As it was we were overly careful with the boat and suspicious of the locals and never experienced any theft issues.

We also prepared a lot for heavy weather and have thankfully seen no more than 35 knots at sea since passing Cape Mendocino.

What is something about the cruising culture you like and what is something you dislike?
Darusha — I love that we are a floating small town that dissipates and reforms constantly. You keep meeting up with your neighbours all over the world, and there's nothing like the feeling of seeing good friends pull into an anchorage unexpectedly.  However, all small communities have problems with gossip and we all can get too much in each others pockets.

Also, there's a fine line between the wealth of information and help you can get from other cruisers and nosy neighbours trying to tell you what to do.

Steven — We enjoy the camaraderie and community spirit.  I'm not sure I dislike anything.

What (if anything) do you wish someone had told you before you started cruising?
Darusha — It’s not that hard. Just go.

Steven — Go as soon as you can.  Don't wait for everything to be perfect.  Incidentally, many people gave us this message.

Of the changes, choices and compromises you had to make along the way, which were you happiest and most satisfied about, which do you wish you had chosen otherwise and why?
We spent two months in an anchorage we’d planned to spend a couple of weeks in, and we often talk of going back.  Being free to change your plan when you find a place you love is one of the highlights of cruising.
I wish that we had visited Panama, rather than mainland Ecuador.  The Ecuadorian government makes cruising almost impossible and Panama has better anchorages as well.

What is your biggest lesson learned?
Cruising is hard work.  Boats need a lot of maintenance.  Cleaning and cooking and provisioning are more difficult than they are on land.  Watches need to be kept on passage.  Living on land is easier, and for many people more relaxing.  It’s not all mai-tais in the hammock.

What did you do to make your dream a reality?
We arranged our entire lives to make this happen.  We have no children, no pets, no cars, and went years between minimal vacations.  We skimped and saved, and sailed as much as we could.  I can't exaggerate how much we did for this as we did everything we could.

What question do you wish I would have asked you besides the ones I've asked you and how would you answer it?
One thing that I have noticed is that many people outfit boats for long ocean passages when their interest is to cruise in a specific foreign territory.  I recommend that people who want to sail in a specific place to buy a coastal cruising boat in that location rather than outfitting a boat for offshore passages.  Boats are cheaper in Mexico or Tahiti or New Zealand than they are in California.  And you need less of a boat with less gear aboard than you would for ocean crossings or sailing in higher latitudes.

16 June 2011

10 Questions for Cloverleaf

cloverleaf2 David Feiges, chief mechanic, Beverly Feiges, chief helms-person and Navi-guesser began cruising in 1977 aboard Cloverleaf, a Krogen design built by Treworgy Yachts hailing from Sioux City, Iowa, USA. They traveled the East coast of the USA from Maine to western Florida, most all of the Bahamas, all the eastern Caribbean, Venezuela, Jamaica Caymans and western Caribbean from Honduras through Mexico, the Mediterranean from the Balearics to Turkey, south to Cyprus, Syria, Lebanon, Israel, and Egypt.  You keep track of them on their blog or via email (cloverleaf@cloverleaf.com).

What (if anything) do you wish someone had told you before you started cruising?
Not to worry about not having our lives wrapped up with the three couples we were so close to in Iowa, and that we could become addicted, and I really mean addicted, to constantly meeting new people with new stories to tell.

What is your most common sail combination on passage?
When we sailed, (for the first 21 years of our cruising life) we used jib, main, and mizzen. Downwind we used spinnaker and mizzen staysail, We consider a pole to wing out either the jib or spinnaker to be an essential. Check my article "If You Really Want To Sail" in an SCA bulletin a few years back.

When have you felt most in danger and what was the source?
I hate to even admit this, but one night anchored in the offshore island of Aves, with no other vessel even in radio hailing distance except what I thought was a suspicious Venezuelan boat. Dave refused to worry and he was right; we later learned from the area ranger, this was a Venezuelan buy boat, which explained all the small boats coming and going.

What is your biggest lesson learned?
Don't be afraid to alter course when conditions warrant. We learned this, and it took twice, on rough passages from Caicos to Dominican Republic, and the Virgins to St. Martin. In both cases there were alternate harbors, and falling off to reach them would have turned an exciting and rough upwind slog, to a pleasant, exciting reach.

cloverleaf Describe a "typical day" at anchor on your boat
I love the long slow breakfast times when we are not rushed, can take our food and a full pot of coffee to the cockpit or what I now call "the back porch," enjoy the scenery, have plenty of time to talk and even read a chapter out loud from our current book. Then we will each go to work, doing chores, housekeeping, whatever, and if the water is warm, a swim, in fact on really hot days, multiple swims. If we are lucky, we will meet some neighbors and share the sundowner hours with them. We end the evening, now since we got the dish, with some evening TV. It doesn't get much better than that.

With the benefit of hindsight, what are the boat selection criteria you would use to purchase a boat for long term cruising?
Get it as big as you can afford to maintain. Bigger is easier, it is more stable, there is room for more goodies and more room to do the maintenance. Life is more pleasant, but only if you can afford the bill. Bigger is for sure more expensive, it is not harder to handle,but don't buy more than what you can comfortably afford. Whatever you buy, if you don't keep it up,it will be dangerous.

What piece of gear seems to break the most often?
We had to think long and hard about that one, since with good maintenance, there is usually nothing repetitive, except when we foolishly try to keep old equipment running long after its used by date, as happened with our old generator and windlass. Otherwise, I would have to say toilets, both electric and hand pump variety, often related to having guests.

How do you fund your cruise?
Dave's quick answer is he calls our boys, who took over the business, and tells them, "Trip costing more than expected, WORK HARDER." In truth, we are retired now, but Dave did not really leave the working world when we first bought the cruising boat. We did it in short chunks, built around school vacations, and did not consider himself fully retired until 65.

What is something about the cruising culture you like and what is something you dislike?
I love the people we meet, the joy in sharing their adventures and ours, the openheartedness of almost all the cruising community. On the negative there are a few, you hear them on the radio, usually someone who has not been humbled by mother nature yet, who can say the most awful things. Fortunately very seldom, but the Jersey Shore seems an area you are most likely to hear this sort of thing.

What question do you wish I would have asked you besides the ones I've asked you and how would you answer it?
Maybe a question about favorite books, especially cruising books, like the Saga of Cimba or Fair Winds and Far Places, or favorite entertainment equipment, like satellite radio, and TV.

21 March 2011

10 Questions for Sohcahtoa

Casey, Jeff and Matt cruised from 2005 to 2007 aboard Sohcahtoa, a LaFitte 44 hailing from Seattle, WA, USA. They completed a two year circumnavigation by way of the Cape of Good Hope and through the Panama Canal stopping in Mexico, French Polynesia (Marquesas, Tuamotus and Society Islands), The Cook Islands, Tonga, Fiji, Vanuatu, Australia, Cocos (Keeling) Islands, Mascarene Islands (Rodrigues and Mauritius), Republic of South Africa, St Helena, Ascension Island, Brazil, Bonaire, Panama and Costa Rica.  You can learn more about their cruise on their website. Casey says: “On Nov. 20th I married Majella van Hoof, an amazing Australian gal whom I met while we were cruising in Tonga in 2006. She isn't mentioned in the Sohcahtoa blog because I was superstitious that doing so might jinx the relationship. We're currently living in the Seattle area but were married in Australia. Matt and Jeff were both in the wedding.

How did you (or did you) gain offshore experience prior to leaving?
To gain offshore experience we headed to the west side of Vancouver Island one weekend a few months before we had planned to start our cruise. By the time we got there, it was nearly dead calm. We bobbed around for a couple hours and went home. Our next experience was the passage from Neah Bay, Washington to San Diego.

What is something about the cruising culture you like and what is something you dislike?
I loved how welcoming people from the countries we visited were. We met people who drove us around on tours, welcomed us into their homes and gave us fresh fruit and vegetables. I doubt we would have had the same reception stepping off a airplane or big cruise ship. I think it's a combination of starting out with an interesting story (and tan), feeling more comfortable because you're essentially arriving in your house and often showing up to smaller areas that might not get as much tourist attention.

Similarly, there's a great camaraderie among fellow cruisers. Cruisers are often eager to lend a hand to or share a bit of useful knowledge with a fellow cruiser. This applies to people actively cruising. Cruisers who hunker down in one area for a few seasons can lose that. They can start cliques and/or feuds with the other cruisers there. Maybe those people shouldn't be considered cruisers but rather live a boards in a foreign country. I guess that's more of imperfection in the territory than something I dislike about the culture. 
 
What is something that you read or heard about cruising, that you didn't find to be true?
I'm not sure if we read or heard about this anywhere but we were all under the impression that we'd have all kinds of time to learn or develop new skills on long passages. I did learn more about fishing, sail trim, general boat maintenance and destructive powers of salt and repetitive motion but I also slept next to two guitars for two years and still don't know a single chord. Passages were much more conducive to reading than anything else.

Something I didn't realize until I started cruising, mayonnaise doesn't require refrigeration. As long as you don't contaminate it with any other food, use a squeeze bottle, it will keep for a long time.

What are some of your favorite pieces of gear on your boat and why?
Hands down, my favorite piece of equipment was Earl, our Monitor wind vane. It steered Sohcahtoa for a majority of the trip. Next, after replacing the membrane, our reverse osmosis water-maker worked like a charm the entire trip. It meant one less thing to worry about each time we stopped.

Describe a perfect cruising moment that will make cruisers-to-be drool with anticipation
Wow, there were so many. So many new friends met and drinks shared. In Mexico we'd buy fish from the local fisherman and enjoy tuna sashimi and ceviche with a few friends we'd met along the way. In Tonga we sailed to a small, uninhabited island with a couple other boats we'd met in Bora Bora and Rarotonga. We had a beautiful white sand beach to ourselves and spent the day fishing, kite surfing, snorkeling the nearby coral heads and relaxing in the sun. That evening we made mahi mahi tacos and cooked bananas in a camp fire for dessert. People can fly in to exotic locales for fishing or diving or walking sandy beaches but you can't buy your way into the friendships made while in a cruising adventure. Did I mention that I met my wife while cruising in Tonga as well? That was pretty great. 

What do you think is a common cruising myth
That your gear will save you. There are many people out there perpetually outfitting for a cruise. They just need to upgrade one more piece of gear. Of course, you need to be prepared and you should know your boat inside and out but you don't need the latest and greatest of everything. Know your boat and have a contingency plan for when things break. If you're doing any kind of long term cruising, things will eventually wear out or break, no matter how new. 

What did you do to make your dream a reality?
We started planning our trip shortly after graduating from college so, while most of my friends were buying new cars and houses, I drove the same crappy pickup I'd had for years to save money. We also took sailing lessons and bought a Catalina 30 to practice sailing on. One of the most important things we did was to pick a time frame and stick to it. We had several unfinished projects when the time came but boat was sound. Leaving behind the "security" of a good job was one of the scariest, most thrilling and rewarding parts of the entire trip.

Is there anywhere you sailed to that was a disappointment?
It wasn't necessarily disappointing but I expected Mauritius to be more remote or less inhabited. I seemed so far away to me, I didn't expect it to be such a popular vacation destination for everyone in that hemisphere. I was mistaken for a Russian there a couple times so it was more remote than say Hawaii but I didn't expect all the big resorts.

What is your biggest lesson learned?
The biggest lesson I learned was the good friendships can take a serious beating and eventually come out stronger.

What question do you wish I would have asked you besides the ones I've asked you and how would you answer it?

What piece of gear do you wish you had?

It would have been great to have had a small, well insulated freezer. Something that wouldn't draw too much power but could freeze a bit of meat.

17 March 2011

10 Questions for Wings

Judy Jensen & Fred Roswold have cruised part time since 1986 and full time since 1996 aboard Wings, a Serendipity 43 hailing from Seattle, WA, USA. During that time they have cruised through the Pacific, Asia, and the Indian Ocean. You can read more about them on their blog or by email (svwings@aol.com).

What (if anything) do you wish someone had told you before you started cruising?

One of the wonderful things about cruising is discovering things for one’s self. Of course safety practices and certain practical matters like how to sail, how to anchor, how to survive living in close quarters, are among things which one shouldn’t have to learn the hard way, but these we think we had that covered long before we left on our extended cruises. Other things, if we had been told, such as that cruising is more expensive than we imagined or that the world is too big for us to get to all the places we dreamed of, we probably would not have listened to anyway; you believe what you want to believe. So we really can’t think of anything that, if someone had told us, would have made a difference, positively or negatively, in our cruising experience.

Is there a place you visited where you wish you could have stayed longer?

You have to find a balance between staying longer and longer, so as to become fully immersed in a country or locality, and quickly moving on so you get to more places. We stayed in many countries far longer than most cruisers, often over a year, and we encourage cruisers to slow down and stay places longer, and not just the normal cruiser haunts where all you do is hang out with other cruisers, but places where you are not surrounded day in and day out by yachties. But staying does not mean putting your boat in a marina and flying home for a year. It means staying there long term and really getting into the community and getting to know people who live there. You get more out of cruising when you stop checking off the list of places you visited, stop saying, “Been there, done that”, and start smelling the flowers, most of which you won’t even see are there for the first few months.

And we think, in all honesty, that there has never been a place where we were not ready to move on when we did, or that we regretted leaving after we left.

Can you think of a sailing tip (e.g., sail trim, sail combination) specific to offshore passages (e.g., related to swells)?

The most important thing we can say about sailing offshore is to prepare yourselves and your boat so that it is enjoyable for you to be sailing.

Prepare yourselves. Do a lot of sailing before you set off. Sail in all kinds of weather. Sail on as many boats as you can so that you learn what you like and what you don’t like (before you buy).

Choose a vessel which sails well and can sail in any direction (including upwind) so that you are not struggling or forced to motor in heavy weather. A boat should be a sailboat first and a house or storage locker second. Place a priority on sailing.

Make your boat easy to sail. Make it easy to adjust things with proper winches, leads, and cleats. Make it easy to move around on (and in). Reduce clutter; such things as jerry cans, dinghy’s and other items which, if stored topside, restricts easy movement. This is a safety issue for you and also makes your vessel more seaworthy (so that sailing in heavy weather and taking a wave aboard is less likely to carry away something or do damage).

Keep your vessel it simple. Evaluate critically those complex labor saving devices which can cause big trouble if they fail or tangle in bad weather.

Keep your vessel clear below decks as well so that living aboard during the offshore passage feels comfortable and relaxed and is not an endurance test.

Set a regular watch schedule and keep to it.

And the most important tip: Reduce sail early.

Over the time that you have been cruising, has the world of cruising changed?

The amount of money people spend on their boats and to cruise has gone up. There are more people out there with high personal wealth. There are fewer low budget boats and low budget families cruising.

Typical cruising boats now are bigger and more complex. These boats are also more costly to maintain. Marinas are more costly because more people are going to them and the demand for marina berths often exceeds the supply. Many marinas are reducing numbers of berths for smaller boats and increasing berths for superyachts.

This does not mean that it is no longer possible to cruise in a smaller, simpler, boat with a low budget, but people who do are in a minority. In general, costs have gone up.

On the other hand navigation has become easier with better charting tools and other electronics and the internet is everywhere more accessible so communications and financial issues are now simpler to handle.

Piracy is now much more of a concern.

When have you felt most in danger and what was the source?

We felt most in danger in some third world countries when local people acted in a hostile or threatening manner. This occurred in Papua New Guinea and the Solomon Islands. Many other countries, such as places in the Caribbean, may also have similar dangers. No bad situations actually developed for us but we realize that a boat and the cruising people aboard it represent a vast amount of wealth to a third world person who has nothing and few hopes or prospects. A cruising boat in a remote place is highly visible and might look like an easy target.

Share a piece of cruising etiquette.

Have courtesy and compassion to locals who wish to sell you things even when you are tired of hearing their pleas. Remember that they are just trying to make a living for themselves and their families. Be generous.

Show respect for local people and customs and the laws of other countries, including clearance procedures, even when you think they can’t or won’t be able to enforce them.

Toward other cruisers show tolerance for those who anchor too close or do other things which seem to intrude on you.

What is something about the cruising culture you like and what is something you dislike?

We like the camaraderie around the docks and in anchorages including the friends one makes, social scene and the willingness people show to help each other with problems and tips.

We don’t like arrogance which is often shown towards locals and local officials. We were saddened to hear cruisers in Mexico advise others not to reveal their weekend arrivals in order to avoid paying overtime clearance fees, for example.

We don’t like cruisers who are disrespectful of local people and their customs.

We don’t like the rumours and incorrect conclusions which cruisers pass around and which become accepted as truths when there is little basis or foundation. This includes weather and safety issues, equipment issues, as well as other things related to local customs and cultures and personalities.

What is your biggest lesson learned?

We learned to slow down while sailing, not to push the boat too hard.

We also learned, or are still learning, to accept what comes our way and appreciate where we are, physically and psychologically. We realized that we won’t get to every place which we dreamed of going, or do everything we dreamed of doing, and no matter what we thought about our capabilities and what our futures would hold, plans change.

What did you do to make your dream a reality?

We created a reasonable and detailed financial plan and we stuck to it.

What question do you wish I would have asked you besides the ones I've asked you and how would you answer it?

I wish you had asked what were our objectives for going cruising and what are the important considerations for making cruising a success? What are the wrong reasons for going cruising?

Our objective was to continue living on our boat but to do it in some new places and to enjoy sailing as often as we could while doing it. We viewed living aboard and sailing as the life we preferred, not as a means to achieve a goal and then to be discarded as we moved on to other things. “Sailing around the world”, so we could say we’d done it, was not our objective. Don’t go cruising to escape the modern world, it exists everywhere.

Cruising, for us, would only be a success if we truly liked doing it, liked the sailing part (I can’t emphasise enough how important this is, and how often it is not true for cruisers) and enjoyed the experience of living in other places.

To make cruising a success, if you measure that by how long you continue to like doing it:
  • Both parties, if it is a couple, must equally want to do it and enjoy it. It is unlikely that the non-sailor you met and introduced to sailing will like it over the long term.
  • You need to know that the type-A personality, which earned you the money to buy that boat, will need some adjustment or you won’t find the life challenging enough to want to continue (after a 1000 white sandy beaches and a million palm trees, how many more do you need to see?).
  • Consider how you will be able to deal with being away from children, grandchildren, and parents.
  • Have a realistic cruising budget.
  • Like and be good at “fixing things”.
  • Make your boat comfortable and natural to live on because otherwise you will soon get tired of “camping out”. That means: neat, tidy, uncluttered, a good shower, galley, office, place to relax and read, plenty of ventilation and light, plenty of storage for the personal things which mean so much to you, and the ability to work on things and have small projects going without completely inconveniencing your partner.
  • Go cruising only when you know from experience you like it, not because it looks good in a magazine article. You won’t spend many days sailing along reclining in your cockpit with your arm around your sweetheart and a glass of wine in your hand.

14 March 2011

10 Questions for Celestial

celestial Scott, Donna, Nathan, and Celeste began cruising in 1978 on a 24 footer, moved up to a 29 footer in 1981 and ultimately circumnavigated from 1988 to 1996 on Bluejay, a J-36, departing and returning to Seattle, WA, USA. In 2009 they began cruising on Celestial a Tripp 47. You can read more about their current adventures on their blog or contact them via email (hansentripp47@gmail.com).

With the benefit of hindsight, what are the boat selection criteria you would use to purchase a boat for long term cruising?
We have always believed in the phrase, “a fast passage is a safe passage”.  We have always had borderline racing boats.  A teak interior is beautiful but you are going to want to move without running an engine constantly, choose a boat that can sail.  I asked for two heads this time and a closed berth when friends could stay but that’s because we want those grown kids to come visit as well as other friends.

Can you think of a sailing tip (e.g., sail trim, sail combination) specific to offshore passages (e.g., related to swells)?
When you’re going downwind, it is important to use a spinnaker or whisker pole to stabilize the jib especially is a seaway.  We’re surprised how many cruisers don’t do it.  Even on a broad reach, a pole will give you better performance and more stability.

celestial3 Over the time that you have been cruising, has the world of cruising changed?
Yes, hugely.  Boats have become bigger and navigators are less competent.  The larger boats of today are far more complicated, expensive and difficult to maintain.  When we started cruising in ‘88, a 36 foot yacht was the middle of the fleet if not on the larger size.  Electronics were far more limited and yachtsmen had to be more diligent navigators.

What piece of gear seems to break the most often?
Sails, and electrical connections are at the top of the list, for sure.  With our Tripp 47, we had to quit using our high tech Kevlar main and switch to a used Dacron delivery main for better dependability in offshore conditions.

How would you recommend that someone prepares to cruise?
Start with a smaller boat, sail often, make mistakes, learn and then decide on the vessel you want and do your best to make it seaworthy. We had a 24 footer in ’78 and sailed Canada extensively, a 29 footer in ’80 which we sailed down the coast to Oregon and to Hawaii and back.  We decided on the 36 footer in ’87 which we circumnavigated on and now the Tripp 47 in 2009 which we sailed from Portland, Maine through Panama to Seattle and now heading back to Mexico.

celestial7 Describe a positive experience you have had with local people somewhere you have visited.
We have so many stories!  Numerous people even this trip have said, ‘how can I help you, I want to be of service.’  One lady in Hawaii saw us walking (we weren’t even hitchhiking) and said, ‘Where are you going?’  She took us to town, got out of the car and told us, ‘take it back to the pier when you’re done and leave the keys in it, I’ll pick them up the next day.  We came to the islands as normal folk who need staples, or a ride, who want to be friends and most people went out of their way to include you in their festivals, invite you to come to dinner or to the church potluck after we enjoyed their local service.

How has cruising affected your personal relationships?
We sailed for 8 years before we had kids but planned the circumnavigation with our 2 year old in mind.  I finally got to be a full-time mom and Scott, who loves to learn and teach others, encouraged Nathan and 6 years later, Celeste, to approach every situation in life as a learning experience.  When we tried to engage a nephew in thoughtful expressions of the world around him and theories on how it all worked, he came back with, “What, I’m not at school right now”, something our kids couldn’t understand.  Of course, today, they are both great well-educated adults!

celestia4l We still are in contact with sailors we meet in the 1990’s, especially those we spent more time with as we waited out hurricane seasons together or were on the same cruising track, the ‘milk run’, whom we met often with. Being ‘in the same boat’ meant a lot to cruisers who wanted to help each other, learn from each other, etc.  We could relate totally with each other.

What is your biggest lesson learned?
The biggest lesson is that all of life is about learning and you keep at it until you’re satisfied.  There are so many small things when you start out, you ask so many small questions, like how things work, what do you do when, where can you anchor, etc. but we had no mentors to ask and had to research the problems, go out and try it, have trial and error.  Go to the boat show, join a cruising club but in the end, just do it.

“It depends” comes up often when people ask us questions because many times, there are no hard and fast answers, just try it and see.

celestia6l What is something that you read or heard about cruising, that you didn't find to be true?
Poverty leads to crime.  We trusted many islanders with our property and kids.  The poorest people we met were some of the most hospitable and honest. 

Other poor countries are dangerous and America is safe.  Most of those countries were safer than being in our urban cities back home.  We did see pirates and crime but it was few and far apart.  Even Mexico today is still a safe place, during the day and in the quieter ports.

What question do you wish I would have asked you besides the ones I've asked you and how would you answer it?

What role does religion play in cruising?

Cruising friends that we knew, were often amazed at all the people we got to know and places we got to go as we came to a new place.  We’d say we had family in every port and we meant the Christian family we had met in churches along the way, enjoyed and allowed them to partake in our life.  Our son wanted to go to a week church camp so we took our one year old daughter and we were camp counselors for the week.  A Christian Samoan needed materials delivered to an island 200 miles away and we took a huge boatload but they celebrated ‘Bluejay day’ the day we arrived.  Another church needed materials delivered from American Samoa to Western Samoa and so we did that, praying the cockroaches would leave with the boxes and not decide to stay.  Jesus was our way of life at home, and we were happy to see we could enjoy Him and help His kingdom along the way.

27 December 2010

10 Questions for MoonSail

moonsail1 MoonSail is a Catalina/Morgan Center-cockpit 38 hailing from Kemah, TX, USA.  Chris Mooney (Captain) and Barbara Leachman (self-titled 1st mate/galley slave) cruised aboard MoonSail from 2005 - 2009 through the Caribbean, Bahamas and US East Coast. They returned for a few years of work and hope to resume cruising in Fall 2011. You can find more details on their website or send an email (Barb@moonsail.com). Barb says:  Cruising was not my idea nor was it my dream but I am now hooked and love the lifestyle.  I moved on to the boat from a 2000 sq ft house with 2 suit cases.  I had no problem selling my house and just about everything I owned.  I was ready to leave the corporate life and go on an adventure.  I am extremely lucky to have found a very accommodating and easy going mate to teach me and learn with me the life of a cruiser.

What (if anything) do you wish someone had told you before you started cruising?
Chris: How much we would motor-sail. For a 38 foot sailboat to go from island to island during daylight
hours, you almost always have to run the rhumb line.  There is no time for tacking and using the wind.  A 45 foot or larger boat goes fast enough to sail it.

Barbara: I can’t think of anything specific that I wished someone told me before we left.  It was a lot of fun learning from other cruisers as we went. They are all such fun loving can caring people. A lot of people asked if I was scared and thought there were pirates everywhere.  I was nervous but I can honestly say I was only scared a couple of times and that had nothing to do with pirates.

What is something that you read or heard about cruising, that you found particularly accurate?
Chris: That security in the Caribbean (as far south as Grenada), for the most part, is not an issue.  The constant worry about security is overblown. Common sense and practical precautions will keep you out of trouble. Trinidad & Venezuela are a whole other story and in my opinion to be avoided.

Barbara: The most accurate statement I would say we found to be true was that all plans are cast in Jell-o or sand. 

What was the most affordable area you have cruised and the most expensive? What was affordable or expensive about each area?
Chris: Northeast US was most expensive.  $40-60/night for a mooring.  Crowded during the summer, especially weekends, since the local boaters have a short season to play in. Caribbean was not cheap, but could be done reasonably.  Food, especially US style food is expensive, as was electricity at the docks, rum & beer are cheap.  Plenty of ability to anchor as much as you want to save dockage costs.

Barbara: The cheapest area was the Dominican Republic, but it was also the poorest country.  I was not comfortable in that country and have no desire to return. The Dominican Republic is a beautiful country, but the officials are very corrupt.  The sanitary conditions left a lot to be desired and you have to continually use hand sanitizer after touching anything that was in the water you are anchored in.

I would say Grenada was very affordable and easy to live in. Grenada is affordable in for both marine services and goods.  They have one of the best open air markets in the Caribbean.  The people are still so thankful to the Americans for aiding them in the conflict in the 80’s that they will come up to you and shake your hand and say thank you to your face.

The most expensive area was Martha’s Vineyard/Nantucket/long island sound area. The Northeast of the US around Long Island sound and NYC is the most expensive place we went.  The mooring balls were $60 per night and that didn’t include launch service to shore.  In many areas that was an additional $10-15 per person 1 way.  The area is beautiful though and we are very glad we spent time in the area.

I n your own experience and your experience meeting cruising couples, can you convince a reluctant partner to go cruising and if so, how?
Chris: I think usually not well.  In our case, the dream was mine and Barb got drawn into it.  I had the plan when we met.  moonsail3She had never sailed before.  She jumped in whole-hog, learned everything about the boat without having to be taught, and loved it.  I couldn't have asked for a better cruising partner.  We met many other couples where it was his dream and she went along, but there were frequent trips home or other concessions to her in order to keep her aboard.  We met some who it flat wasn't working for and it was painfully obvious that she wasn't happy.  Some of those just were annoyingly vocal about it, and several went home (some with the spouse some without).  I wouldn't try and go with a reluctant partner.  If you did, I think the frequent trips home are a must, whether to visit grandchildren or the mall.  Also pay what it takes to have good communication so they can call home frequently.

Barbara: I wouldn’t ever attempt to convince anyone to live the life of a cruiser unless they already had a desire to do so.  If one person on a boat is not happy, the whole boat is not happy.

What is your biggest lesson learned?
Chris: Be flexible.  You are going to new places with different foods, customs, music, dress, etc.  Don't expect things to be just like home.  If you want things just like the US, only cruise in the US.  Every day you just take what your given and make the best of it.  Whether that's the weather, or dealing with officials, or fixing the boat.  Getting frustrated and bitching about things won't change them.

Barbara: I feel that if I had to, I could navigate and drive the boat by myself.  I would never want to be in a situation that I had to do that, but it’s a good feeling to know I could do it.

Where was your favorite place to visit and why?
Chris: The most common question people ask, and the hardest to answer.  I can't say there is one best place.  There were several best places for different reasons.  There were almost no "bad" places.  So here are several answers and why:
  • St. Maarten - great for boat fixing (duty free and availability) – great food on the French side - good if you like restaurants and development.
  • Dominica - Great for the opposite reason.  Least developed. Beautiful geography and friendly people.
    Guadeloupe/Martinique - great for the French food & wine.  Much better infrastructure than other islands due to support from France.
  • Grenada - Excellent for long term stay during hurricane season.  Developed enough but not over-developed.  Extremely safe and friendly. 
Barbara: We have been asked this question so many times and it’s so hard to decide.  We really enjoyed Bequia at Christmas time.  There were a lot of community lighting events and they are so cruiser friendly there.

How often have you faced bad weather in your cruising? How bad?
Chris:  You "face" the bad weather every time it happens, even if you're not out in it.  You are basically living outside after all.  So, even at anchor or at a dock, you have to be prepared properly for bad weather.  We experienced one tropical storm and numerous heavy tropical waves while at the dock in Grenada.  You just prepare accordingly.  A properly prepared boat shouldn't have trouble even up to a Cat 1 or 2 hurricane.  Boats that make the TV usually weren't prepared.

As for weather underway, the trick is to not be there.  In the Caribbean, there is little excuse for being out in very bad weather.  Most passages are day trips or a one-night overnight, so you wait for the conditions you are comfortable with.  Every person has a different level of comfort underway. You do need to have proper resources for knowing the forecast.  There are lots of options, too many to name here, but you need to have access to several, and then make your own decision based on their input.  Asking your buddy boat should NOT be your primary forecast resource.  Make your own decisions and interpretations of the data.

Barbara: Weather is the number one ruler of a cruisers life.  We live by it and give it a lot of respect.  That said, we have been chased by 3 hurricanes along the US coast.  We were on the leading edge of Alberto in 2005 going north from St. Augustine to Charleston and that was the only time we tethered ourselves to our pedestal in the cockpit and talked about hailing the Coast Guard to just to report our position every 30 minutes.  We ended up not hailing them but that was one of the scariest passages.  While at the dock in Charleston a day later a water spout passed over the boat. We were lucky it didn’t cause any damage.

Are you attracted more to sailing itself or cruising-as-travel and has that changed over time?
moonsail2 Chris: Easiest question- cruising-as-travel.  I first got the idea of buying a boat after visiting a marina a little before Christmas and seeing the live-aboard community close up.  I have had the boat for 13 years now, lived aboard until a year ago, and actively cruised four years.  I still could take or leave the actual sailing most days.  I love being able to take my whole home from place to place at my whim though.

Barbara: We were more attracted to the cruising life style and not sailing purists.  We had no problems running the engine to get from A to B before dark.

What are some of your favorite pieces of gear on your boat and why?
Chris: Furling sails - makes it easy to single hand and good as your physical strength lessens with age. Stout auto-pilot.  A wheel-drive auto-pilot doesn't belong on an offshore boat no matter what the manufacturer tells you. Great custom davits/arch - dinghy can be raised or lowered with one person, engine hoist, place for antennas, solar panels, wind generator. Biggest RIB-type dinghy you can carry, with largest motor it can carry. It's your car out there.  Engle freezer.  Low electrical draw and make having a freezer easy.

Barbara: We bought a soda machine our second year out and it was probably one of the best purchases.  We stocked spare CO2 canisters and syrup.  They pretty much lasted 3 years.  Just before we left the boat we found (through other cruisers) that there is now a place in St. Martin that will refill the CO2 canisters. 

What question do you wish I would have asked you besides the ones I've asked you and how would you answer it?
Chris: Firearms onboard? - Not worth the hassle in the US and Caribbean.  You have to either lie about it or surrender it in most places.  The risk of needing one is no worth the hassle of having one. Pets aboard? - Wonderfully fun (assuming you are a pet lover in the first place).  But, they add another level of complexity to checking in and out of some countries, you have to deal with their needs, whether that is a litter box or daily walks ashore, getting proper food and supplies in the islands can be challenging, vet availability is limited, and traveling home is more complex and expensive.

Barbara: How often did you see or keep in touch with family?  We were lucky that when we were in the US keeping in touch was easy, especially while we were in the Northeast.  While in the Caribbean, you would be surprised at how readily available the internet has become.  Using Skype you can call home and talk pretty much whenever you wanted and it was cheap.  As far as visiting family, we only had 1 visitor in 4 years and I only flew back to the US once in the 2 years were in the Eastern Caribbean.  We kept a website up to date and posted quite often, so most of our family kept up on where we were through that too.

13 December 2010

10 Questions For Moonshadow

ms2 George Backhus and Merima Dzaferi cruise aboard Moonshadow, a Deerfoot 2-62, 62 feet hailing from Reno, Nevada, USA. George began cruising in 1994 and Merima in 2005. Since 1994, Moonshadow has traveled through the Caribbean, Central America, Mexico, Hawaii, South Pacific, New Zealand, Australia, SE Asia, Indian Ocean, Red Sea, & Mediterranean Sea. Readers can find more information and contact details on their website.

Is there a place you visited where you wish you could have stayed longer?
Just about every place we've been!  We have enjoyed almost every place we've visited but the two places we most long to return to are Malaysia and Mexico.

Tell me your favorite thing about your boat
She meets our criteria of the "ultimate cruising yacht."  She is safe, comfortable, fast, and easy for the two of us to sail and maintain.  While every yacht is a compromise to some degree, we feel Moonshadow is less so than any yacht we  have seen in the same price range.

When you are offshore, what keeps you awake at night (that is, what worries you most)?
In normal conditions we worry about a collision with another object such as a container, unlit boat, reef or fishing net.  In heavy air, we worry about gear failure.

What is your favorite piece of boating related new technology?
Mobile broadband which allows us to access weather and other information and stay in touch when we're coastal cruising.  In most cases we can use Skype with our mobile.

What was the most affordable area you have cruised and the most expensive? What was affordable or expensive about each area?
The most affordable was SE Asia and the most expensive is the Med. Everything (marinas, food, diesel) was very affordable in SE Asia.  In the Med, marinas are very expensive.

What is your biggest lesson learned?
Prepare for the worst and hope for the best.

Where was your favorite place to visit and why?
Undoubtedly our favorite place to visit was Penang, Malaysia.  The marina wasn't too flash, but the town was fun, interesting and a delightful place to hang out.  If you go, don't miss the Friday & Saturday night buffet at the Eastern and Oriental Hotel.

What piece of gear seems to break the most often?
The autopilot.

What is something that you looked forward to about cruising when you were dreaming, that is as good or even better than imagined?
Seeing faraway places and experiencing different cultures.

ms1 What question do you wish I would have asked you besides the ones I've asked you and how would you answer it?
 
What are the five biggest mistakes made by novice cruisers?

The biggest problem for many of us when we start out cruising is that we are “unconsciously incompetent.” That is, we don’t know what we don’t know. We then must learn by making mistakes, watching other’s mistakes, or reading about other’s mistakes. This can end up costing a lot of money…or worse.

1. Buying the Wrong Yacht - The first and usually biggest mistake people make is buying the wrong yacht for the type of cruising they want to do. Many people step onto a yacht at a boat show or on the broker’s docks, pop down the companionway and fall in love with the interior of their cruising home while it is sitting placidly in flat water. Dreams of distant ports of call and the romance of sailing in tropical South Sea waters overtake all common sense, and all one wants to do is sign on the dotted line and sail away. Issues like sea berths, ventilation, galley layout, systems accessibility, storage, sail handling systems, safety and sea kindliness are farther from their minds than a South Pacific atoll.

Many production yachts available today are, at best, a very average compromise between racing and cruising. Once one buys the yacht and moves aboard, they soon discover that they just don’t have the storage space, if not proper layout, for long-term living and passaging. I can’t tell you how many people I have known who have purchased a yacht, then spent years of their time and loads of boat bucks (1 boat buck=$1,000) trying to make the boat work better for them. In the end, they may have spent more than if they had purchased the right boat in the first place.

I think the most practical solution is to do your homework before you even look at a yacht. I suggest one read as many books as possible on cruising and yacht design and then talk to as many cruisers as possible about what they like and dislike about their yachts. Armed with this information you should have a pretty good idea of what works and what doesn’t, and then be able to choose the sort of cruising yacht that best suits your budget and requirements.

I spent nearly a year in research before I purchased Moonshadow. I found both Jimmy Cornell’s World Cruising Survey and Steve and Linda Dashew’s Offshore Cruising Encyclopedia immensely helpful. I also found numerous excellent articles in Cruising World, Sail, Ocean Navigator, Practical Sailor and Latitude 38 magazines.

From this, I developed a “must have” list of criteria for any yacht I would consider. In my particular case, they were:
1. Safety-minimum Category I offshore standard with watertight crash bulkheads fore and aft.
2. Minimum of 50′ for comfortable offshore passaging and long–term live aboard and gear storage.
3. Speed–must be capable of averaging 200 miles per day on passage–at least 50′ of waterline.
4. Short handed capability–must be able to single/double hand as well as mostly maintain myself. And NO TEAK DECKS!

For budgetary reasons, I went to the second-hand market to see what was available that met my criteria. At the time, there were three Deerfoots, and one Amel available. I chose the Deerfoot and, after nearly ten years and 55,000+ nautical miles of sailing, still think I made the right decision for my own requirements.

2. Not Being Thoroughly Familiar with Your Yacht Before Going Cruising - I was as guilty as anyone of this one. I purchased Moonshadow in Ft. Lauderdale in July of 1994 and immediately put her into a yard there to do some refitting. She needed a new engine, as well as maintenance and repair to many of her systems, as she had been lying unused for nearly two years. By the time I finished all the work that I needed to do, I had only had the chance to do five relatively easy day sails before departing Florida to sail to San Francisco. Wow, what a learning curve! Shortly after departing Dry Tortugas for Isla Mujeres, Mexico, we encountered a gale in the Gulf Stream. This was not the place to learn about reefing and heavy weather sailing on an unfamiliar yacht.

I have seen this many times with new cruisers. They are so busy getting the yacht prepared to go cruising, that they have not had time to go out and do any sailing. Some literally finish the last project the day that they leave. When they start cruising, they might encounter a less than favorable experience due to lack of knowledge of the yacht’s handling characteristics, not to mention gear failures due to lack of any proper shakedown.

I would suggest some local cruising before heading out on the “big cruise.” Sail the yacht in as many conditions as possible so you can become familiar with reefing, heaving to, sail handling in adverse conditions, night sailing, docking, anchoring, life under way, etc. Spend enough time on the hook to become familiar with all the systems you will need when you are not plugged into a marina, i.e. battery charging, refrigeration, water maker, windlass, dinghy and outboard, etc. You will also need to be familiar with all your electronics and communication gear before you head offshore. Reading the manual while attempting to program the weather fax when you are bashing into a gale just doesn’t cut it.

3. Making Changes to the Yacht without Cruising Experience - Making changes to your yacht before cruising it would be like altering your clothes without having ever put them on. Get out, sail the yacht, live on board for at least a few months to a year, and then start to formulate a list of what works and what needs improvement.


My good friend Jeff Erdmann, owner of Bollman Yachts in Ft. Lauderdale and the person who sold Moonshadow to me, gave me this bit of advice. He suggested that I make only the repairs necessary to sail her to San Francisco. Once I had gotten there, I would be in a much better position to figure out what I would alter or improve. I can tell you that after three months and nearly 6000 ocean miles, my mindset changed dramatically from when I was in Ft. Lauderdale. He saved me lots of money, because a lot of things that didn’t quite seem right in the marina made a whole lot more sense when I put to sea and did some cruising. I also discovered a few things that I had not even considered until I spent some time at sea and on the hook.

4. Some Cruisers Haven’t Taken the Time to Learn Basic Maintenance- If you don’t maintain a yacht, it will wear out faster or break, usually when you least expect it, and probably when you are at the furthest point from where you can get it fixed. I think Murphy loves messing about on yachts! I like to joke that cruising is just “extensive repair and maintenance in beautiful and exotic places.” That said, if you spend just a few hours a week on maintenance, you are less likely to have to spend days or weeks stuck in some third-world hellhole while you await parts or make major repairs.

I have always been pretty handy, and owned another yacht for 13 years before I purchased MOONSHADOW, so I was pretty familiar with the drill. On the other hand, a full-fledged cruising yacht has many systems on board that aren’t found on a day/weekend sailor. It is important to become familiar with all the systems on your yacht. If you don’t know how they work or how to maintain them, get an expert in to do the work and at the same time show you how. You can also get lots of good information about systems from books like Nigel Calder’s Boatowner’s Mechanical and Electrical Manual.

I also suggest you keep all the manuals for all your on board equipment handy. Mine are organized in three binders that I keep handy at the nav station. It’s also important to have a scheduled maintenance checklist for your yacht’s systems. I use the Cap’n Administration program to keep track of everything.Proper maintenance and a bit of D.I.Y. (do it yourself) repair capabilities, along with a reasonable inventory of spares can mean the difference between pleasurable cruising and costly, inconvenient and possibly dangerous breakdowns.

5. Waiting till the Last Minute to Organize One’s Affairs before Going Cruising - Many people seem to wait till the very last minute to get their personal and/or business affairs in order before sailing off in to the sunset. I’ve seen people trying to rent or sell their home, flog off the car and sort out other affairs with just a week to go before they depart. This invariably adds to the stress level already imposed by a significant lifestyle change, and can also lead to errors in judgment in the handling of one’s affairs, if not the yacht.

If you have your affairs sorted out a few months before your planned departure date, your mind will be free to focus on getting yourself and your yacht ready for the upcoming cruise, as well as to enjoy some quality time with the friends and loved ones who will remain behind.

25 October 2010

10 Questions for Synchronicity

Synchronicity4 Dave, Mary, Leah & Jessica Kruger cruised from 1998 – 2002 aboard Synchronicity, a Fraser 41 hailing from Vancouver, BC, Canada that they bought as a hull & deck and on which Mark spent 1995-1998 finishing. They cruised in Mexico, S. Pacific, Australia, SE Asia, Red Sea, Med, Caribbean, Mexico, and the "Clipper Route" home to Vancouver. Mary (Mother) and Leah (daughter) completed the interview questions and are happy to be contacted by email (Mary - krugerfamily@shaw.ca & Leah - leah1@hotmail.com). Mary says: I would recommend cruising as a wonderful lifestyle for a family.

 Synchronicity5What advice would you give to parents thinking about taking their children cruising?
Mary: I would say DO IT! I think it is best to take kids once they are out of diapers, though I've seen folks do it with babies/toddlers. My kids were 6 and 10 when we left and that worked out great. It was tough when my oldest was 15 because she was so tired of having to say goodbye to friends that she had just met. Kids open the doors to all the countries and other cruisers. They are a universal language of their own!

Leah: I don't know if this is obvious but I would just say make sure each kid has their own personal space... my sister and I shared the v-berth, but thanks to the two cushions we each had our "own room" (my room was the port-side cushion, her's was the starboard). Sometimes when we were sick of each other we'd tape a sheet to the ceiling and literally "divide" the room in two... this never lasted long, but did a good job of giving that itsy bit of privacy I especially wanted sometimes!!

What is your biggest lesson learned?
Mary: That no matter where you are in the world people are really alike. They smile, they love, they enjoy life. Also, that you don't have to have money to be happy. Some of the poorest people we ever saw- Mexico, Indonesia, Africa - were also the most content and happiest.

Leah: Because I spent those years surrounded by adults who had given up the "typical 9-5" for a cruising lifestyle, the biggest lesson I learned was when friends of ours came to visit for a few weeks and then had to go back to work... I'd never realised that some adults actually have to go to work -- I just figured they must really love their jobs, or they'd be out sailing too :)

Synchronicity3What is the most difficult aspect of the cruising lifestyle?
Mary: Probably being away from family at home. Also laundry! I had calluses on my hands from all the wringing of laundry!

Leah: From the local kids who showed us their awesome local swimming hole, to the Omanian kids we spent two days playing non-stop with (through hand-signals only, since we didn't speak each other's languages!) to the four or five kid-boats that we developed life-long friendships with but had to leave eventually... Hands-down the hardest part is leaving behind the people you meet.

What is something about the cruising culture you like and what is something you dislike?
Mary: I loved having my home with me, so that if we had a bad day I could retreat inside and feel like I was back in Canada. I disliked being seasick and sometimes the constant motion that wouldn't end when on a passage.

Leah: I dislike the (at times) fairly intense competition that can crop up -- "Oh you've only been to Mexico?" "You mean you don't have a watermaker??" etc etc etc... I recognize that we all want a chance to share our stories, but I think sometimes the jostling gets a little too serious. I like the immediate sense of community -- especially as a kid, if you saw another boat with kids on it you knew you were going to be instant best friends... there wasn't time for anything else!

What type of watch schedule do you normally use while offshore?
Mary: My husband and I always maintained a 2 hrs on, 2 hrs off schedule. During the day, it was a little more slack as both our daughters took a turn at a watch of an hour or two.

Leah: Mom and dad always did strict 2-hours on, 2-hours off, with me doing an afternoon watch so they could both have a break. The only time they broke from this schedule was when our windvane broke in a storm... then the three of us did 1 hour watches through the night.

Synchronicity2 When have you felt most in danger and what was the source?
Mary: Off the coast of Australia in a storm, where we had to hand steer, including my daughter (she was only 12) for an hour at a time. We had a gale, and lightening hitting everywhere.

Also during a storm off the coast of Columbia - self steering went again and we were dangerously close to losing our mast - in the end we tore a couple of wires in one stay. There were very large waves and 30-35 knots of wind. We tore a huge rip in our main sail. Of course, the worst always happens during the middle of the night in the very black dark.

Leah: As a kid, I looked to my parents for their reactions. So long as dad didn't look worried, I wasn't worried. The one time this failed was when dad got a serious staph infection in his leg (in the middle of the Indian Ocean while we were on passage)... he wasn't able to stand, and mom had to take complete control of the boat. To see dad (our Captain) completely unable to do anything was incredibly scary. Luckily for us we were travelling with friends who used to be doctors... they were about 50 miles ahead of us, but they turned around and did a "house-call", where they scraped out the rotting flesh from his leg and put him on strong antibiotics.

Share a piece of cruising etiquette
Mary: When you are in an anchorage and a new boat comes in call them on the radio or drop by in a dinghy and offer them to come over for coffee or a drink.

Leah: If there's a shared dinghy dock, put really long ties on your dinghy so lots of boats can get in and share. "If you're out sailing and there's another sailboat in good-photo-range, I think it's excellent cruising etiquette to radio them and offer to take their picture and email it to them. It's so hard to get great shots of your boat under sail, this is an offer that is generally very well received!!

Tell me your favorite thing about your boat
Mary: My galley, I can make cakes, buns and a pretty nice dinner from it. It's huge for a boat. They called me the Martha Stewart of the sea!!

Leah: Now that I sail without mom and dad, I appreciate many more things about her... I guess my favourite is that since Dad built her things are very well thought out... such as easy access to the engine & bilge, cupboards that fit our dishes, storage in every possible nook you can imagine, etc etc etc..

Synchronicity6What was the most affordable area to cruise and the most expensive? What was affordable or cheap about each area?
Mary: Indonesia and Turkey by far were the cheapest for food and great anchorages. Lots of ruins in Turkey to see and no cost unlike Greece. Italy's food was outrageously expensive - we ate out once.


Leah: Most affordable was probably Turkey -- we anchored everywhere, ate out for about $1 / person, and hauled the boat (in a boatyard strewn with ancient Turkish ruins and gorgeous flowering bougainvillea) for about $200.  Most expensive I would say Israel -- my perspective is skewed a bit since I wasn't really in charge of finances, but I do remember that a McDonald's hamburger cost $12 and we did not eat out at all while we were there!

What question do you wish I would have asked and how would you have answered?


Mary:

Why did we do it?
We wanted a simpler life, and a life where we could spend more time with our two daughters. We got both. It was a very cheap way travel in relative comfort. I loved seeing all the countries and loved doing it with my family.

We are a very close knit family and I believe it is because of the trip. Plus our girls got to see how fortunate they were compared to so many poor people out there. Our girls are mature and very independent, I'm sure because of the trip.

What equipment do you wish you had?
A water maker and a washing machine.

Biggest fear?
I was terrified that my husband or one of the girls would go overboard. I always feared that when I came back on watch during the night, that he would be gone.


Synchronicity1 Leah:

What do you think about sailing to places that are in "strife" (ie Israel, Sri Lanka, "Pirate-Alley" etc)?
Again, this is from my younger perspective, but when I think about the times that we went places other people were warning us not to, we often had the best experiences. Where we were moored in Israel was 7 miles from Gaza Strip... we could hear the bombs going off day & night. Ditto Sri Lanka -- we could hear the depth-charges being fired every evening. But what I realised is that no matter what the political situation, there are always people who continue their daily lives... the butchers continue to sell meat and the restaurants continue to offer meals... and I think the upside to visiting some of the more "dangerous" places is that as a tourist you are much more of a novelty, and people are often very anxious to show you that their country is still beautiful and wonderful, and that there is more to the Red Sea than pirates and more to Israel than war.

04 October 2010

10 Questions for Velella

velella4 Wendy Hinman and Garth Wilcox have been cruising aboard Velella, a 31 foot Tom Wylie design made with cold molded wood, hailing from Seattle, Washington, USA. They cruised together from 2000-2007. Their cruise included Mexico, Marquesas, Tuamotus, Tahiti, Moorea, Bora Bora, Rarotonga, Nuie, Tonga, New Zealand, Fiji, New Caledonia, Vanuatu, Solomons, Kiribati, Marshall Islands, Pohnpei, Saipan, Hong Kong, Philippines, Taiwan, Japan, and Canada. They bought a boat that fit their budget better than it fit Garth's large frame and left with a loose plan of voyaging for as long as they were enjoying ourselves – not imagining that they would be gone for seven years.  They managed to stay sane and married after 34,000 miles.  Wendy is writing a book about some of their (mis)adventures along the way. Prior to their cruise, Garth circumnavigated via the Suez and Panama Canals from 1973-1978 on a 40 foot double Ender Pinky named Vela in the days of celestial navigation when hardly anyone thought of doing such a crazy thing as sailing velella7around the world. They have tips for prospective cruisers on their blog which focus on sailing a small and simple boat.  They can also be reached by email (wendyhinman@gmail.com).

Is there a place you visited where you wish you could have stayed longer? 
We fell in love with most every place we visited. We would love to have stayed longer nearly everywhere except the Philippines and the Solomon Islands, mostly because we felt like walking wallets and that got old quickly.    That said, the diving there was fantastic.

How often have you faced bad weather in your cruising? How bad?  
velella1 On the whole, we experienced more light winds than heavy winds, and had to beat more often than we might have liked.  We are really glad our boat sails well in light winds because we HATE to motor.  It's hot, noisy, smelly, expensive and it's bad for the environment.   Plus we're on a sailboat for God's sake!  The wind comes up eventually.  The point of our lifestyle was to slow down, right?  But seriously in seven years we faced some of everything, including typhoons and gales/storms.   Fortunately we gradually worked our way up to higher winds rather than getting our asses kicked from the start.  We never had to deploy a drogue, a sea anchor or the storm trisail, though we carried them.  We'd had good practice racing boats for years and that was helpful experience.  The toughest part of bad weather is when it comes up unexpectedly, especially when things aren't stowed or you're asleep.  On many occasions while anchored, the wind shifted radically, putting us uncomfortably close to a lee shore when our engine was acting up. We got good at sailing in and out of anchorages.  I think the most useful preparation for cruising we did was to live and cruise our boat locally before we left.  That gave us a good feel for what worked and what didn't before we left behind the convenience of local resources, a car and a paycheck.  Once we knew how our boat handled, bad weather didn't seem nearly as intimidating.

What do you dislike about cruising that surprised you? 
velella5 I learned that Mother Nature was my new boss and that her favorite time of day for shenanigans is 3am.  There's something tremendously unpleasant about reanchoring the "house" at 3am.   I didn't mind doing laundry by hand, except for sheets; one sheet took up the entire bucket and that's more hand-wringing than I'm capable of.  Another thing I found annoying is the perpetually wet butt I had after any dinghy ride, at least until Garth built a two part nesting/sailing dinghy.   Take some diaper rash cream!  Shorter passages are sometimes just as hard or harder than longer ones because it takes the first few days to get into the rhythm and after that it gets easier.

What is your favorite piece of boating related new technology?  
LED tricolors and anchor lights take almost no electricity.  The anchor lights are solar sensitive so automatically come on when it gets dark.  Makes it easy to find home on a dark night.  And they fit into regular aqua-signal lenses.  Call us luddites, but we love our two part nesting/sailing dinghy.  There's nothing like a peaceful row back to the boat under the stars.

In your experience, how much does cruising cost?  
velella2 Cruising costs depend on where you are and how extravagant you want to live.  Ask a Hollywood celebrity how much it costs to live and then a welfare mother and you'll get radically different answers. We tried to live on the amount our house rent brought in, which was $1000 per month, or about $33/day.  That's not much for groceries, charts, communications costs, boat maintenance, government check in fees, etc. and we weren't always successful.  Occasionally we splurged for special tours and dinners out. When we hung out with other boats living on the cheap or stayed in remote anchorages where there was nothing to spend money on, it was much easier to stay within our budget.  And after we'd spent time in places where we'd done lots of boat maintenance/upgrades or where "yachtie inflation" has distorted the cost of things, sometimes we didn't have much choice.  But we learned you can be miserable with everything or happy with nothing. 

Share a piece of cruising etiquette.  
When you tie up your dinghy at the dinghy dock, leave a long painter so other dinghies can get in close to the dock to drop off passengers.  You can loop a bowline through under other people's lines onto a cleat so that others (who may not be able to tie a knot) won't have to untie you to leave.  Don't fill your dive tanks at 7am!

velella6 Of the changes, choices and compromises you had to make along the way, which were you happiest and most satisfied about, which do you wish you had chosen otherwise and why?  
We didn't try to replicate the complex luxuries of our life ashore and that left us more open to the adventure that we set out to have.  We kept our expectations small and our program simple so we could afford to just go and not worry about leaving and losing the boat.  On the other hand, we wish we'd selected a boat on which Garth could stand up properly, so we might never have had to come back!

Finish this sentence. "Generally when I am provisioning..." 
Generally when I am provisioning I immediately decant everything I can into Snapware airtight containers and remove all cardboard from the boat to avoid critters and other uninvited guests aboard.  If I can ditch the cardboard before getting back to the boat, all the better.

velella3 What is your biggest lesson learned?  
To live in the moment and appreciate the wonder of the world and the incredibly lucky situation we're in.  Living simply helps us appreciate the small, most important things in life that all the clutter in our lives can make us forget.  And to keep in mind that the hardest times make some of the best stories.  Oh, and boats don't like to keep schedules.

What question do you wish I would have asked you besides the ones I've asked you and how would you answer it? 

How do you think cruising has changed over the years?

In many ways people are trying to recreate their lives onshore and that introduces the same pressures to cruising life that we're looking to escape.  They find they must turn into expert mechanics or carry a lot of money to keep up with all the complex systems aboard that often keep them from enjoying life's simple pleasures and the places where they are.