21 June 2010

10 Questions for Infidien

Patti, Rick and Jessica Miller circumnavigated from August 2001 until May 2006 on Infidien, a Lavranos South African custom built aluminium cutter hailing from Golden, Colorado. More information can be found on their website and they can be contacted via email (pattimiller747@yahoo.com).

Describe a perfect cruising moment that will make cruisers-to-be drool with anticipation
Making landfall at a tropical island in the Pacific. We had a seventeen day passage from the Galapagos to the Marquesas, our longest passage. We arrived at Nuku Hiva under a full moon. It was truly lovely, and it was wonderful to in arrive in tropical paradise.

What is difficult for the parents of cruising children and what is difficult for the children themselves?
Many children had trouble with not having enough friends. But our daughter made friends easily and we as parents had to make the effort to be around other boats with kids.

What do you dislike about cruising that surprised you?
Not enough independence. I didn't like having to coordinate schedules to use the dinghy or basically to go anywhere.

Over the years, how much time do you think you spend at anchor, at marinas, sailing and motoring?
- Sailing and motoring 10% overall time - (motoring maybe 20% of that)
- At anchor 55%
- At marinas - 35%

How do you fund your cruise?
From the Dot Com

Describe a positive experience you have had with local people somewhere you have visited?
Kapingamarangi - We hauled over 2500 lbs of supplies out to this atoll. The islanders were most appreciative. They gave us many fine crafts.

What do you miss about living on land?
We missed doing all the kid activities like choir or gymnastics classes.

What is your biggest lesson learned?
Self reliance. We helped rescue a boat that hit Minerva Reef (on passage between Tonga and New Zealand). The yachting community did a great job without the help of the Coast Guard or any other official group.

What piece of gear seems to break the most often?
GPS - We went through three GPS units, about one computer laptop a year, and anything else electronic seemed to fail. I think the marine environment is just hard on electronics. Well - OK I had a hatch open on passage and a wave came over the deck and that did in one computer. That was probably my fault...

What question do you wish I would have asked you besides the ones I've asked you and how would you answer it?

What else did you do besides sail?

We are also rock climbers. We climbed in New Zealand, Thailand, and South Africa. It was awesome!

14 June 2010

10 Questions for Cetus

Terry & Heidi Kotas hail from Gig Harbor, WA. From 1992-1994 they cruised from Gig Harbor to Hawaii and across the South Pacific aboard their first cruising boat Cassiopeia, a Golden Gate 30. From 1998-2003 they cruised the West coast of US and Mexico, Marquesas, Tuamotus, Tahiti and Hawaii aboard Cetus, a Fantasia 35. Beginning again in 2009 they have been cruising the San Juan Islands, West Coast of US, Mexican Baja and the Sea of Cortez with plans to sail to the Galapagos and beyond. Their earlier cruises included their daughter Carly and ship's cat Cali. More information can be found on their blog and they can be contacted by email (FollowCetus@gmail.com). Terry is currently finishing the sequel to his first novel, Adventures Aboard Rick’s Place, which is a humorous adventure novel based on their experiences building a boat in their back yard and then sailing it across the South Pacific.

What (if anything) do you wish someone had told you before you started cruising?
“This too shall pass.” All the things that are very scary for the novice cruiser are usually short lived. Storms pass, rocky anchorages smooth out, and dark gray clouds give way to sun. Now when we face adverse conditions, we know it is usually just a matter of hours before things start improving, where in the beginning we felt that it would never end

Are you attracted more to sailing itself or cruising-as-travel and has that changed over time?
Though we love nothing better than a good long beam reach, we have always been most interested in cruising as a way to travel so we could see the world from the comforts of our own home. From the beginning we chose a heavy, full keeled boat, as we were looking for comfort and safety over performance.

Share a piece of cruising etiquette
Always give plenty of room to others in an anchorage when you come in. Don’t try to squeeze in between other boats. Always think about the possible wind shifts and where that will place you – you don’t want to be sitting over someone’s anchor when they are ready to pull it up to leave.

What is your favorite piece of boating related new technology?
AIS. Large ship traffic at night was one of the most worrisome aspects especially of coastal cruising. You could see their lights and even pick them up on radar, but still be uncertain of exactly where they were heading – and they never seemed to answer a call on the VHF. Now, you not only can tell how far away they are, where they are headed, if you’re on a collision course, but also the name and MMSI number to easily contact the vessel.

Tell me your least favorite thing about your boat
Teak Decks. Though they look beautiful, they take a lot of time and effort to keep them in good repair and they get extremely hot in the sun.

What is difficult for the parents of cruising children and what is difficult for the children themselves?
For us as cruising parents, the most difficult thing was to balance where we might like to go with our daughter’s desires. Her choice would be to follow along with her friends on other “kid boats” and we might have other ideas.

For the children themselves I think the hardest thing is saying goodbye to new found friends when it is time to leave an area.

Where was your favorite place to visit and why?
We loved the Tuamotus. We visited several atolls and enjoyed them all. The snorkeling was outstanding with a wide variety of colorful corals and sealife, and the motus on the fringing reefs with their swaying palm trees, white sand beaches and turquoise water were everything you’d expect of a South Pacific Isle.

How did you secure your valuables (in and on your vessel) while going ashore? And your dinghy?
We keep excess cash and passports in a semi hidden small compartment and we will put a lock on the main hatch if we were going to be away from the boat for more than a couple hours. Depending on the area we’re in, or if we’re at a dock, we will disconnect the electronics in the cockpit (GPS and VHF remote) and store them below. If we’re just away for a short time, we simply turn on some music, so if someone approaches the boat they’ll think someone is on board.

As for the dinghy, we have a lock on the outboard and a cable with a lock that we can secure it if it’s at a dock – the cable also runs through the oars to keep them attached to the dinghy. We also have the dinghy set up with a harness that we can lift it to the side of the boat for safe keeping at night, but must admit we rarely use that.

Across a year, what do you spend the most money on while cruising?
Food and drink. You can cut back on everything else: staying at marinas, fuel, upkeep, entertainment, etc, but you always have to eat.

What question do you wish I would have asked you besides the ones I've asked you and how would you answer it?

What is the key to making the cruising life enjoyable?

As Sheryl Crow sings, “It’s not having what you want, but wanting what you’ve got.”

We’ve been running into so many couples lately that having just set out on their “dream of a lifetime” cruise are finding themselves disgruntled and disappointed because it’s not what they thought it would be, so they are not enjoying it.

People often set out thinking it’s going to be a vacation – it’s not. It’s simply a different way of life and there is work involved. But for every hardship or inconvenience there are innumerable rewards such as watching dolphin play in your bow wake, swimming in crystal clear water, watching glorious sunrises and sunsets and much much more.

So we think the real key to happy cruising is your attitude – just enjoy what you have and where you are instead of thinking that the grass is greener somewhere else.

Be happy with your boat. Every boat is a compromise, and instead of wishing you had something else, make the best of what you have.

07 June 2010

10 Questions for Puff

Brian Pucella, Captain, and Jeannette Pucella, Admiral, commenced their cruise in 2001 in Puff, a Bayfield 32C hailing from Ocracoke, NC. So far, they've cruised the US Southeast coast, the Bahamas, and the Eastern Caribbean. More information about them can be found on their cruising website or their Bahamas travel site.

What do you enjoy about cruising that you didn't expect to enjoy
When we first started cruising, we expected to enjoy everything! We were idealists. We eventually discovered a few things we didn't enjoy, like seasickness, gear failure, and having to take breaks from cruising to go to work, so we can do it again.

Do you have any specific advice for couples cruising
Be very forgiving of each other, grudges just don't work on a boat. Just let it go! Also, give each other space. A day of from each other can work wonders.

What piece(s) of gear would you leave on the dock next time
We can't think of anything we would leave behind. We didn't have a lot of money for our first year cruising, so our boat wasn't heavily outfitted. It was just the basics. Over the years, we've put a lot of thought into every piece of equipment we decide to bring on board. We're still minimalists.

When you are offshore, what keeps you awake at night (that is, what worries you most)?
When we're offshore, the only that worries us at all is the danger of colliding with a freighter. However, we keep a vigilant watch and are comfortable with sighting ships at sea, so it doesn't worry us that much.

Do friends visit and how often?
We never have visitors. Our boat is just too small to accommodate them. If we know we will be in one spot for awhile, then family or friends can stay in a hotel and visit us.

Share a piece of cruising etiquette
Do not anchor too close to your neighbor, it's intrusive and unsettling! Please give other boats in the anchorage as much space as possible. We don't all like to travel in packs. Speaking for ourselves, we enjoy our privacy. We don't want to be in shouting distance of another boat, that's what the VHF radio is for!

What do you miss about living on land?
We would love to live on land part time, so we can have a garden and a place for visitors to stay. We've been living on the boat for ten years, so we are ready for a house at least for part of the year.

Why did you decide to cruise?
It was an irresistible adventure for us, and it still is.

Describe a negative experience you have had with local people somewhere you have visited.
We have had very few negative experiences with local people. The only one that comes to mind is when we were visiting a remote shore on the island of Martinique. We were not only completely ignored, they stared through us and kept walking, people gathered their children and ran away from us. Surely it was some sort of cultural barrier or misunderstanding. Maybe we were just having a really bad hair day!

What question do you wish I would have asked you besides the ones I've asked you and how would you answer it?

What about pets aboard?

We have a dog and a cat. When we sailed through the Caribbean islands, we chose to leave our dog with family members because the British and French islands do not allow dogs on land. We would have been very limited. We sail with our animals in the Bahamas and they love it

31 May 2010

10 Questions for Hawk

Evans Starzinger and Beth Leonard sailed Hawk, a 47-foot aluminum Van de Stadt Samoa sloop hailing from Annapolis, MD from 1999-2009 for their second circumnavigation through the high latitudes eastabout by way of all the Great Capes. Their first circumnavigation was from 1992-1995 and was a tropical westabout circumnavigation by way of the Panama Canal, Torres Strait and Cape of Good Hope aboard a 37-foot ketch named Silk. You can learn more about them as well as access many of their published works on their website.

Describe your first sailing experience.
Evans doesn’t really remember his first sailing experience. He started sailing small dinghies on small lakes in NH and Vermont during his college years and gradually worked up to being a charter skipper in the Caribbean during the summer until he graduated from graduate school. But Beth has a vivid memory of her first real experience. She had floated around on Sunfish and other small sailboats in flat water and no wind a few times before her father bought a sailboat the summer she graduated from college. He kept the Bristol 24 near his home in Oswego, NY on Lake Ontario. He and Beth, along with Beth’s boyfriend at the time, decided to take it across Lake Ontario to the Thousand Islands. They beat their way into a 30-knot headwind for four hours and made good only 8 miles. They gave up, turned around and surfed back into the harbor a bit over an hour later. That night, they went out to dinner and toasted being safely back where they had started while the room still heaved and swayed around them. Beth had no interest in ever setting foot on a sailboat again. She did end up daysailing that boat with her father and boyfriend on summer weekends and took a few trips of up to a week in length. She did not always enjoy her time on the boat and certainly did not consider herself a sailor.

Why did you decide to cruise?
Evans and Beth were working as management consultants in Europe in 1990 and becoming increasingly disillusioned with corporate life. While their careers were addicting and all consuming, they both felt that they had too little time for the things that really mattered: family, friends, exercise, nature, reading, being together. They had been talking about doing something different but were having trouble coming up with something that would be as exciting, challenging and rewarding as their careers. On a trans-Atlantic flight, Evans read American Promise by Dodge Morgan (about a nonstop, solo circumnavigation of the globe), and he immediately decided he wanted to sail around the world, though not solo and not nonstop. He spent the next two years trying to talk Beth into it. Her lack of sailing experience made it difficult for her to picture what cruising would be like and uncertain of whether she could handle the challenges involved. But Beth had always wanted to be a writer. She decided three years sailing around the world would give her the best opportunity she was ever likely to have to make that dream come true. Both Evans and Beth were in the partnership election window and almost sure to be elected when they walked away from the corporate world. In retrospect, neither have any regrets. What they gave up in financial security, they more than gained in becoming the people they wanted to be when they grew up.

What (if anything) do you wish someone had told you before you started cruising?
Most voyages do not founder on anything as solid as rocks or shoals, but on the intangibles of human frailties and interpersonal dynamics. The sea finds all weaknesses: in boats, in people and in relationships. You have to be sure you have the skills to sail the boat, to fix it, to navigate, to get along in foreign cultures. But you also have to be prepared to come face to face with yourself, to discover things about yourself that you do not like and to work to change those things. You have to be ready to confront any weaknesses in your relationship and to address those in a situation where you are together 24/7 in sometimes highly stressful situations where your lives depend on one another. Cruising will not fix a broken relationship – it is far more likely to rip it apart along the fault lines. But where a basis of true respect and caring exists, the experience of cruising together can create a real partnership and eventually transform that into the kind of soul-deep bond that most people dream of but only a handful ever achieve. In the toughest times, when you think that you can’t do it or that your relationship cannot survive it, commit and commit again, knowing it will be worth every moment of doubt, pain and discomfort. In the best times, which come far more often, don’t forget to dance on the foredeck under the stars, to make love in the cockpit caressed by the tradewind breezes and to say “It sure beats working,” at least twice a day!

Describe a "typical day" at anchor on your boat
We wake with the sun, which in the high latitudes might mean 4:00 in the morning but in the tropics usually means 7:00. We eat a simple breakfast of cereal and yogurt/milk. We do email and check the weather using our Iridium phone and answer any emails that need an immediate response. Then, our real day begins. Since “sailing around the world means fixing your boat in a series of exotic ports,” Evans always tries to do at least one little maintenance or repair job each day and one major one each week. Morning is chore/work time, so Evans goes to work on whatever he has designated as the task for the day (fixing a sail, cleaning a winch, changing the oil, etc.), and Beth helps if needed. Otherwise, Beth sits down at her computer and writes whatever magazine article she has due. We usually work until lunch when we eat something light. In the tropics, Evans will often lie down for an hour or so while Beth continues to work on the computer. When the heat of the day is past, we exercise. We might go for a walk, a swim, snorkel on a nearby reef, clean the bottom of the boat, or something else. If we need groceries or hardware items, we will go ashore together and find them. In the evening, we often go to other people’s boats or have others over on our boat. We may go out with a bunch of cruisers to a nearby restaurant. We tend to go to bed early, usually not later than 10:00.

When you are offshore, what keeps you awake at night (that is, what worries you most)?
When we are really offshore, 500 miles or more from land and nowhere near shipping channels, not much worries us. We trust the boat and each other, and the biggest excitement usually comes on squally nights when we get caught by a fast-moving squall with too much sail up. We both worry much more when we’re leaving or closing with land or sailing coastally. Then other shipping traffic is the thing that most concerns us. We did not have AIS on our last circumnavigation, but this is something we will add when we leave again for our next voyage.

What is your most common sail combination on passage?
On our tropical circumnavigation aboard a 37-foot ketch, our most common sail combination by far was double headsails – a roller furling 135% jib to leeward and a 110% running sail poled out to windward. In the tradewinds, the winds were aft of 110 degrees apparent more than 80% of the time, and that was by far the best sail combination for running downwind – no chafe on the mainsail, no chance of an accidental jibe, almost perfect balance on the helm. On our high latitude circumnavigation, we had the wind forward of 110 degrees apparent half the time and wind speed varied much more than in the tropics, so we used a much wider range of sail combinations with no one combination dominating. Very roughly, we used double headsails one quarter of the time, the mainsail and blade jib one quarter of the time, the mainsail and a large genoa staysail one quarter of the time and the mainsail and a 1,000 square foot Code Zero reaching sail on a removable furler one quarter of the time. ((Editors note: Their website has details on the sail combinations used on their 37-foot ketch, and their 47-foot sloop and Beth’s book, The Voyager’s Handbook, includes charts showing the average winds speeds and directions they experienced over the course of 110,000 offshore miles and describes the implications for sail inventory on various size boats.))

What piece of gear seems to break the most often?
When we reached Durban in South Africa toward the end of our first circumnavigation, we arrived with a three-page list of things to fix only seven months after leaving a boatyard in New Zealand with everything on our to-do list complete. When we fit out our second boat for our second circumnavigation, we decided that anything that was broken in Durban we simply wouldn’t put on the new boat. That meant that our second boat was much simpler than our first, with much less to break. We do not carry many things that other cruisers complain about maintaining and fixing: refrigeration, watermaker, diesel generator, pressure water, hot water, air conditioning. On our second boat, the most problematic piece of equipment has been the instrument system, though it is tremendously more reliable than the one we had on our first boat which we replaced twice over the course of a three-year circumnavigation.

Is there a place you visited where you wish you could have stayed longer?
We spent a bit over a year in the Chilean channels at the beginning of our second circumnavigation and loved it so much that we went back at the end of the same voyage and spent another ten months. This is one of the most remote and beautiful cruising grounds anywhere in the world, but also one of the most challenging.

With the benefit of hindsight, what are the boat selection criteria you would use to purchase a boat for long term cruising?
After completing our first three-year circumnavigation on a 37-foot fiberglass ketch, we appreciated many of her attributes including: secure U-shaped galley for cooking at sea, excellent sea berths, handholds always within reach above and below decks, well-designed anchoring platform. But those weren’t enough. When we set about looking for a boat for our second voyage, we also wanted:
1. Hard dodger
2. Head or wet locker at the base of the companionway
3. Separate cabin for guests/sea berths
4. Easy access to every part of the engine
5. Workbench and tool room
6. Reefing system that could be managed by one person without leaving the cockpit
7. Extra water/fuel tankage (we carry 200 gallons of each)
8. Aluminum construction to minimize leaks and increase strength
9. No teak on deck
Hawk has all of these attributes, and she has proven a near-perfect vessel for the high latitude voyage we undertook. That said, most of these attributes have more to do with comfort and convenience than safety. We have seen people successfully complete voyages in every type of vessel imaginable. The specific boat matters far less than being determined and resourceful.

What question do you wish I would have asked you besides the ones I've asked you and how would you answer it?

What’s the hardest thing about cruising?

Transitioning back to shore life. We know many people who have gone through severe depression when they returned ashore. When we returned from our first circumnavigation, it only took us a few months to decide that we had to go again. We had changed too much, and the US had changed too much while we were gone, for us to want to figure out a way to fit in again. It was too difficult to hold onto the things we had most come to value about ourselves ashore. We are once again in the midst of that transition after ten years aboard our second boat, and this time we’re handling it better. We’re not trying to return to who we were, but trying to find a way to bring our cruising values ashore, to live more simply with less consumerism, to do only what we really want to do, to find ways to contribute to a community. Cruising frees you by forcing you to pay off all your debts and then teaching you how little money you really need to be happy. That’s a lesson worth holding onto when you finish your own voyage and decide how to live your life going forward.

27 May 2010

Readers Weigh In - Open Discussion

After having read the first 10 interviews, what follow up questions would you ask?

Or, anything else you would like to add?

- Livia


Reminder of ground rules:
  1. I specifically asked the interviewees to respond from their personal experience and to NOT try to address all possible answers to any given question. Interviewers were asked to express how THEY cruise not how others SHOULD cruise. This is not a complete book on how to cruise but rather a sampling of real cruisers' personal experiences. Please keep their instructions in mind when responding.
  2. The interviewees are not responsible for answering any questions and readers should not expect that they will see their comments.
  3. I will be moderating the first few rounds of comments. If your comment takes a day to appear, this is why. Hopefully I'll stop moderating after a few sessions.
  4. Disagreement is great - personal attacks are not.
  5. No anonymous posting.

24 May 2010

10 Questions for Pacific Bliss

Lois and Gunter Hofmann are a married couple who cruised from 2000 until 2008 aboard the catamaran Pacific Bliss, a 43 foot Catana 431 hailing from San Diego, CA. During those years they completed a circumnavigation logging 34,000 nm and visiting 62 countries. They began in France where the boat was built, going back to San Diego over the years during cyclone or hurricane season, or when they needed a break and had the boat in a safe place. They returned back to Canet, France to the very same dock they had left. More on their trip can be found on their website and in their forthcoming book and they can be contacted through their website or email (loisjoyhofmann@yahoo.com, gunterahofmann@yahoo.com). They add: As the saying goes, "every year spent cruising is a year you do not age," and we believe it. After 8 years at sea, we feel younger than ever! So don't let age keep you from circumnavigating!

Why did you decide to cruise?
We had a dream of cruising when we retired. We might not have ordered the catamaran and cast off those bowlines, though, if it were not for some personal circumstances that caused us to want to escape. We yearned for control and freedom over our lives. What we found and learned at sea was much, much more.

Over the time that you have been cruising, has the world of cruising changed?
Yes, the technology really changed over the eight years. GPS is the greatest! As the navigator, Lois began using paper charts, but we ended up relying on mostly electronic charts, with paper as the back-up. We did not have email capability when we began. Then sailmail came on the scene, which allowed us to transmit via our SSB. We did not have a satellite phone initially. In 2002, we purchased an Iridium satellite phone, which allowed us to call our elderly parents, and also our broker to talk us through some technical repairs while at sea.

Over the years, how much time do you think you spend at anchor, sailing and motoring?
We never kept exact records of this, but since we made many inland trips, probably 25% of the time was spent sailing. When at sea though, we sailed whenever we could, which was 90% on ocean crossings such as San Diego-to-Marquesas, Cape Verde-to-St. Lucia, and Thailand-to-Salala, Oman. The longest motoring stretch was "uphill" from the Panama Canal to San Diego.

What type of watch schedule do you normally use while offshore?
We always used 3 hour watch schedules, with or without additional crew. During passages over one week long, we would usually have one or two crew.

What piece(s) of gear would you leave on the dock next time? Why?
We liked having all the gear, but could have done with fewer clothes.

Which spares do you wish you had more of? Less of?
Gunter had so many spare parts on Pacific Bliss that one catamaran sailor called her "the supply boat." So much, that sometimes he forgot what we had. Mostly though, these spares came in handy. We even used our spare flux-gate compass, spare computer, etc. The one we did not have to use was our spare hydraulic steering system, the original one lasted 34,000 miles, but we would not have felt comfortable leaving it on the dock.

How much does cruising cost?
We budgeted about $30,000 per year, not counting the cost of the boat, spare parts, repairs and maintenance.

Have you found "trade goods" to be useful on your cruise? If so, what kinds?
There are two categories to bring with you: (1) give-aways, the best to bring are sunglasses and prescription glasses, baby and children's used clothing, extra canned foods and staples, and toys/coloring books/crayons. We gave away boxes of glasses and clothing in the Banks Islands of Vanuatu, and even our spare dinghy prop to a village for their lone fishing boat; we gave away canned goods and staples (rice and flour) to families in a cyclone-devasted village in Tonga (2) trading, all batteries, esp D-cell, T-shirts.

Do you have any specific advice for couples cruising?
If you have not cruised before, take a "basic training" cruising course to see whether it is for you. We took the one offered by John Neal, a 1000-mile sail from Raratonga to American Samoa. Make sure that each of you knows how to navigate, run the SSB, sail, motor, run the dinghy, etc. in case the other is incapacitated. To keep the peace and to make sure each of you feels important, divvy up the responsibilities and take courses increase competence and confidence. In our case, Gunter was the Captain, Lois was the Navigator. Lois also managed the radio communications and did most of the cooking. Gunter did all the mechanical work. Fixing the boat is a major challenge in remote areas; some men who come from occupations such as finance (vs. engineering, for example) give up cruising because of this. Women who feel like an unappreciated "galley slave" cooking and cleaning the boat, also give up. If a couple cannot live together on land 24/7 without getting away from each other part of every day, don't expect to live together confined to a boat for weeks at a time.

What question do you wish I would have asked you besides the ones I've asked you and how would you answer it?

What lessons in life going forward did you learn at sea?

We learned that one is never totally in control; we are at the mercy of God and nature. Learn how to pray! We learned flexibility, how to go with the flow (in this case, the wind and weather). A cruising boat is not a plane or train or even a cruise ship. Firm shedules are the enemy of safety on board. When friends or crew join you, provide a place or a time, not both.